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Author: Lou DiToro

Seven Fertilizing Tips to Boost Tree Health, Appearance and Life Span

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Blog.

Trees need plenty of nutrients to grow healthy and strong. If they don’t get them, they’ll wither and die. The soil provides plenty of nutrients for trees. But nutrient depletion over time, poor soil management, natural factors like soil type, and pollution (acid rain and agricultural runoff) can strip nutrients from the soil and make it less rich. So can soil erosion, excessive tilling, overfertilizing, soil that’s too sandy, and acid rocks. 

To preserve trees on your property, you must ensure your soil has plenty of nutrients and organic matter. Below are five signs you need to fertilize your trees and shrubs to boost your soil’s nutrient content.

  • Yellowing leaves
  • Stunted growth
  • Poor flowering
  • Thin foliage
  • Dead or dying branches

If you see any or all of these signs with your trees, they indicate that your soil may lack the nutrients needed to grow healthy trees. Testing your soil will tell you for sure.

Testing Your Soil

Testing your property’s soil can uncover any problems you have with it. You can test soil anytime the ground isn’t frozen. The best time to test your soil, though, is in the spring. That way, you can address any issues before planting. If you live in Providence, you can get your soil tested for free. You can also get a soil test through URI’s Master Gardener program. Consult a local arborist or RI Tree for help or advice on soil testing.

The Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Illinois, recently conducted a five-year study designed to evaluate the effects of organic and inorganic fertilizers on soil quality and tree growth. Its researchers tested several substrates, including hardwood mulch, compost, aerated compost tea, synthetic NPK fertilizer, and a commercial biological product (mycorrhizae). The study shows that soil compost and mulch boost soil quality the most, while mulch and compost increase tree growth the most.

Benefits of Fertilizing Trees

Fertilizing benefits trees enormously. Put simply, it’s a cost-effective way to improve a tree’s health, appearance, and lifespan of a tree—all while helping benefit the environment. Here are several benefits of fertilizing trees:

  • Boost tree growth and vigor
  • Increase resistance to stress
  • Improve full fruit and floor production
  • Extend life span
  • Enhance esthetic value
  • Improve the quality of air
  • Cut noise pollution

Keep in mind that trees absorb pollutants from the air and release oxygen. Plus, they reduce noise pollution by blocking sound waves.

Tips on Fertilizing Trees

The first step when fertilizing trees and shrubs is choosing the right fertilizer. Look for the letters NPK on a fertilizer label. That indicates the fertilizers include a nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium mixture—three critical plant nutrients. Types of NPK fertilizers include balanced, incomplete, and organic.

If your trees have yellow leaves or show stunted growth, the soil may be deficient in nitrogen. In that case, you’ll want a fertilizer rich in nitrogen content. Otherwise, you may want a good “balanced” fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 12-4-8

Here are six additional tips on fertilizing trees and shrubs:

  • Apply fertilizer from early spring to late fall. That’s the best time to fertilize trees in most areas. Don’t fertilize during the winter. It’s the worst time to do it.
  • Spread the fertilizer over the tree’s root zone. That’s the area beneath its canopy. Apply the fertilizer evenly with help from a broadcaster or a drop spreader.
  • Water the fertilizer thoroughly. That will help the nutrients penetrate deep into the soil.
  • Sandy soil drains faster than clay soil. So, you may need to fertilize sandy soil more often than if you have clay soil.
  • Fertilize in the fall in areas with cold winters, like New England. Trees will store nutrients all winter so they can return strong in the spring.
  • Avoid overfertilizing. That can not only damage plants, it can also pollute the environment. Follow the directions on the fertilizer label.

These tips can help you when it comes to taking care of your trees and shrubs. If you have any questions regarding fertilization, contact an arborist or RI Tree. Asking for help from a professional never hurts.

USDA Updates Plant Hardiness Map

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Article.

The United States Department of Agriculture (USA) recently unveiled a new iteration of its Plant Hardiness Map for the United States. The new map shows that the contiguous United States is about 2.5° F. warmer than the previous 2012 map, meaning about half the country has shifted into another half-zone. It also means that many sections of the country have gotten warmer since 2012.  

The Plant Hardiness Map is a proven tool for nursery growers, farmers, gardeners, and homeowners. Providing a standard for determining which perennials have a good chance of surviving in an area, the map helps growers zero in on the right plants, shrubs, and trees for a zone. Homeowners, for example, can use the map to choose the best trees, shrubs, and plants for their property.

The map divides the U.S. into 12 zones, with Zone 1 being the coldest and Zone 12 being the warmest. Heat Zones are a relatively new map idea. The zones reflect the area’s average minimum temperatures during the winter. The map also has several new features, such as map widgets, which let you zoom into your current t location and zoom out to the map’s default view.

While most of Rhode Island falls within the plant hardiness zone 6a, it extends from 5b to 7a, with its average annual minimum temperature for the area ranging from -10°F to 5°F. The state’s coastal location—with its northern and western regions being cooler than its southern and eastern areas—contributes to this placement.

Visit this USDA website page for a copy of the map and instructions on how to use it as a guide to choosing the best plants for your area.

7 Watering Tips

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Tree Care.

Watering plants is the key to helping plants to survive and thrive. They need water for not only photosynthesis—the process by which they convert sunlight into energy—but also to transport nutrients throughout the plant.

Water also helps plants absorb critical nutrients. Without water, plants can’t dissolve the soil’s minerals and nutrients needed for growing and developing. Plus, water provides turgor pressure, which keeps plant cells rigid and upright. Lacking turbo pressure, plants will wilt and die.

Below are tips we suggest to people to keep your plants hydrated:

  • Research your plant’s water needs:
  • Cluster plants with similar water needs
  • Water deeply and infrequently:
  • Water early morning or late evening
  • Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation system
  • Mulching correctly
  • Check soil moisture

One caveat when it comes to watering plants: don’t over-water. It can lead to root rot—a deadly fungal disease. Also, make sure you adjust your schedule to the region’s weather. Water more during dry periods. Water less during cool, rainy periods. Finally, watch for water stress.

The Definitive Guide to Watering Plants and Keeping them Hydrated

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Tree Care.

Water is the lifeblood of trees and other plants. A lack of water also leaves plants susceptible to diseases and pests. Plants can also die if you don’t water them adequately. Trees and plants growing in New England are no exception. In fact, they typically need more water than if planted in other regions—thanks mainly to the cooler climate and variable rainfall patterns.

New England often has long, cold winters and short, cool springs. If the ground freezes during those months, plants may be unable to access water, stressing them out. Poor access to water can also lead to a plant’s death. Then there are the summers to deal with. Summers can feature dry conditions or drought. With the region being relatively humid, water will evaporate quickly from the soil. Plants can wilt and die if it does not rain for several weeks.

Specific Reasons Why Watering Is Critical

Watering plants is the key to helping plants to survive and thrive. They need water for not only photosynthesis—the process by which they convert sunlight into energy—but also to transport nutrients throughout the plant. Water also helps plants absorb critical nutrients. Without water, plants can’t dissolve the soil’s minerals and nutrients needed for growing and developing. Plus, water provides turgor pressure, which keeps plant cells rigid and upright. Lacking turbo pressure, plants will wilt and die.

Plants also lose water through transpiration. This process, which is how water from leaves evaporates, cools plants so they don’t overheat. Water also helps plants fortify themselves against pests and diseases. Plants lacking water become more susceptible to injury from insects, fungi, and other pathogens. Maintaining a healthy plant impacts our environment. Plants improve air quality, reduce soil erosion, provide shade and shelter, and enhance the beauty of our surroundings.

 

Practical Tips on Watering Trees and Plants

New England’s weather is unpredictable. So, providing enough water to plants can test your patience. Below are tips we suggest to people to keep your plants hydrated:

  1. Research your plant’s water needs: Not all plants are equal when it comes to watering. Some, like succulents, can survive long periods of dry conditions or even drought. Others, like ferns, need more water. So, do some research to determine how much water your plants need, then give it to them.
  • Cluster plants with similar water needs: Clustering makes it easier for you to water them on a timely schedule. So, you’re more likely to keep to a regular schedule. One way to do this is to group plants needing water daily and those needing water weekly.
  • Water deeply and infrequently: That promotes healthy root growth. Roots will grow deep into the soil, which will help them become more drought-tolerant. This approach also is ideal for trees and shrubs. But be careful. Not watering enough can lead to shallow root growth, which makes them prone to wilting and dying during dry times.
  • Water early morning or late evening: Watering plants mid-day is the worst time to do it because the water can evaporate quickly, leaving the roots dry. Instead, water early in the morning or late evening. That way, the water filters through to the roots.
  • Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation system: These approaches to water are ideal for watering your plants. They deliver water directly to a plant’s roots. Plus, they are much more efficient and less wasteful, which saves you money on your water bill.
  • Mulching correctly: Mulch helps retain soil moisture, which means you can water less often. Plus, mulching helps eliminate the growth of weeds and regulates the soil’s temperature. Mulch around your plants is what’s usually advised.
  • Check soil moisture: Checking soil moisture tells you when to water your plants. So, do it regularly. All you need to do is slip your finger into the plant’s soil up to your first knuckle. If the soil feels dry, then water the plant. If it feels moist, wait a few days and then recheck soil moisture.

One caveat when it comes to watering plants: don’t over-water. It can lead to root rot—a deadly fungal disease. Also, make sure you adjust your schedule to the region’s weather. Water more during dry periods. Water less during cool, rainy periods. Finally, watch for water stress. Some common signs of stress in plants include wilting, drooping, and yellowing or browning leaves. If you see any of these signs, water your plants.

Five More Pests to Keep an Eye On

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Article, Blog.

Figure 1: Beech leaf disease

Beech leaf disease is ravaging our forests. A recent article in the Providence Journal by Alex Kuffner describes just how bad an impact BLM is having on R.I. forests. First detected in Ohio in 2012, this plant disease is relentless. It interferes with chlorophyll production and starves beech trees to death.

The beach tree is a “foundational species” in New England forests. It produces a high-fat nut for black bears and other animals to eat, a place where woodpeckers can forage, and homes for

animals to nest and raise their young. A beech tree can live up to 400 years.

BLM is invisible to the naked eye. The only way to spot the plant disease, says Kuffner, is to cut the leaves open and then wet the area. Thousands of nematodes (worms) will exit the leaf. The nematodes winter over in the beech’s long, cigar-shaped buds and attack leaves as they emerge in the spring.

That effort interrupts the leaves’ ability to photosynthesize and produce food. No known cure for this disease exists. But research projects are underway to combat it. One problem confronting research scientists in this area is the lack of funds that could help tackle the issue.

Below are four other plant pests Rhode Islanders need to be alert to:

  • Spotted lantern fly — This pest attacks plants and trees. The adult fly features spotted patterning, scarlet underwings, and yellow markings on the abdomen. It also has semi-transparent forewings. Adults are an inch or so long and active from August until the first late hard freeze, which occurs around late October into November. While the SLF can survive independently, it mainly spreads through human movement. The SLF was first detected in Pennsylvania in 2014

SLF is invasive. It lays its inconspicuous egg masses on pallets, vehicles, and other goods. So, inspect any shipping materials you get and abide by travel restrictions when moving through areas quarantined for the SLF. If you go to states with SLF, check your gear and equipment thoroughly before leaving and scrape off any egg masses. If you spot one in RI, take a photo, squash the insect, and then make a report to RI DEM’s agricultural pest alerts website.

Emerald ash borer

  • Emerald ash borer beetle — EAB attacks American ash trees. Responsible for destroying millions of ashes in 30+ states, EAB is native to Asia. It arrived in the U.S. hidden in wood crates and wood packing materials. Scientists first identified the EMB in southern Michigan in 2002. Since then, it has spread throughout the country. While no cure exists for EMB, several treatment options are available for controlling EMB’s spread. Since pesticide regulations differ from state to state, homeowners should contact their state department of agriculture for the best option in their state.

Asian longhorned beetle

  • Asian longhorned beetle — This pest threatens hardwood trees. It can cause more damage than Dutch elm disease, gypsy moths, and chestnut blight combined. No cure exists for ALB, so early identification and eradication are critical. It infests New England, New York, and Ohio areas, threatening recreation and forest resources valued at billions. It’s destroyed millions of acres of this country’s hardwoods in national forests and backyard trees. These pests live in firewood, solid wood packing material, branches, logs, stumps, and wood debris and trimmings.

Box tree moth

  • Box tree moth — BTM is invasive. Thriving on boxwood trees as caterpillars, it originated in Asia, migrated to Europe, and now threatens the U.S. It was first spotted in North America in Canada in 2018. It decimates both wild and ornamental boxwoods. BTM caterpillars feed on the underside of leaves, giving them a “peeled” appearance from the top.

Mature caterpillars eat the whole leaf but not the midrib. It can lead to complete defoliation. BTM can web together leaves and construct silken retreats. BTM eggs appear pale yellow and aid in groups of 5 -20, overlapping like shingles. If the infestation is small, hand-picking the caterpillars and disposing of them in soapy water is effective. You can also knock them off with a strong jet of water, which eventually kills the pest.

Additional threats to R.I. forests include winter moth, Lymantria dispar (formerly known as gypsy moth), Southern pine beetle, oak gall wasps, and hemlock woolly adelgid. 

If you spot one of these pests or think you’ve seen a pest not native to Rhode Island, let DEM know as soon as possible.

Best Time to Plant a Tree: Spring and Fall

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Blog.

Are you thinking of planting a tree? Fall is the best time to do that. It gives the tree plenty of time to root itself. A tree starts growing the second it’s planted. It will continue to grow as long as the soil temperature stays above 40°F (4°C). By the time spring comes, the tree will be established and growing.

Another reason to plant in the Fall is the soil. It’s a better fit for digging plant holes than in the Spring. Plus, the summer’s warmth still lingers in the soil. That keeps the soil moist enough for digging, making it perfect for planting.

Some people worry that winter will kill a tree planted in the Fall. No so. Trees go dormant in the winter so they can withstand the cold. In other words, they “hibernate,” like animals do in the winter. So, if you plant a sapling early enough in the Fall, it will have plenty of time to establish itself before the winter.

The tree will also have two growing seasons before the summer heat arrives and a healthy enough perception to survive. Ideally, you want to plant a tree at least six weeks before freezing temperatures arrive. Use October as a deadline for planting a tree.

Spring is also a Good Time to Plant

Spring is also a good time to plant a tree. But doing so then is risky. It might be too rainy for the soil to become stable enough for the tree to grow. That could prevent the tree from establishing itself enough before the summer heat arrives. Intense summer heat can kill a tree.

Spring, however, has one significant advantage over the Fall when planting a tree. Many local nurseries stock up on inventory in the Spring. So, you have more trees to choose from in the Spring than in the Fall. You may also have a better-quality tree to choose from in the Spring.

The time of the year you plant your tree, however, will only matter if you plant it in the right spot. Location is as critical as the time you plant it. Make sure you don’t plant the tree too close to existing structures. You’ll also want to research how much sun, wind, and water the tree prefers.

Knowing that information means you’re better able to pick a spot compatible with those conditions. And remember to call the free 811 Service to ensure there aren’t any underground utilities where you plant the tree. The tree’s roots could become a real problem for the utilities in time.

Finally, give your tree plenty of water—roughly one gallon of water per inch of diameter on the trunk. Mulch will help keep the tree moist and happy. Use up to 4″ and keep space between the trunk and the mulch. 

Crabapples: A Good Choice to Plant

Plenty of beautiful flowering trees are available when planting a tree. The Crabapple (Botanical name: Malus spp.) is an excellent choice if you are looking for a compact tree that brings year-round interest. Gorgeous spring buds, handsome summer foliage, and excellent fall color are among the Crabapple’s main draws. The Crabapple’s growth rate is moderate. It grows to about 15-20’, with a spread of about 15-20’.

The Crabapple blooms in mid-to-late Spring and features fragrant white, pink, magenta, or red blooms that typically last 1-2 weeks. Crabapple fruit ripens from late summer to mid-fall. Most cultivars have red fruit, but you can find yellow, maroon, and orange. Crabapples come in all shapes and sizes, including spreading, weeping, dwarf, vase-shaped, and columnar.  

The tree’s flowers bloom at slightly different times depending on the cultivar. One design consideration with Crabapples is whether to plant multiple types of Crabapples that bloom for a more extended period or plant the same type that provides an explosion of fragrance and color simultaneously.

A Crabapples’ fruit, however, is more than just ornamental. It also provides much-needed wildlife value, but its fruit is too sour to enjoy. The fruit comes in various sizes and colors depending on the cultivar. Some cultivars, such as the Malus ‘Guinevere,’ shown below, provide winter interest with the fruit.

If you’re thinking of planting a tree in the Fall, visit the RI Tree website at www.ritree.org to view small and medium-sized tree selections for residential landscapes. Or talk with a  member of RITree’s staff.

RI Tree to Host Free Summer Tree Workshops

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Blog.

RI Tree is again hosting its free tree workshops—one of the organization’s most popular education sessions. We started these workshops a few years ago, and they have caught on with people. The two-hour workshops review the knowledge, skills, and equipment you need to conduct safe and rewarding interactions with trees, landscapes, and community forests. 

These workshops generate increased awareness and a better understanding of the beauty, benefits, and concerns associated with trees and a healthy canopy. The workshops also offer a chance to explore local trees and discuss critical tree issues. RI Tree staff conduct the sessions, which run from 1:00 pm to 3:00 pm. The locations and topics of information, explanation, and discussion are below. 

  • Champion Tour (Westerly @ Wilcox Park) July 18th

Visiting some Champion Tree specimens, we will present the program’s history and the process of nominating, scoring, and calculating a Champion tree’s score. The Helen Walker Raleigh Tree Care Trust, managed by the Rhode Island Foundation, generously supports the Walker Raleigh Champion Tree Program with a special grant.

These visits to the urban fringe forest will discuss preservation strategies and forest health issues. 

  • Reading the Landscape (Newport @ Morton Park) August 8th

This visit to Morton Park will focus on the efforts of sustaining canopy in an urban park. These discussions will also focus on how correct planting, large tree maintenance, and physical infrastructure plays a role in providing well-canopied recreational spaces.

  • Preserving Elder Trees (E. Greenwich @ Goddard Park) August 15th

A park stroll looks at tree structure and its relationship to health, maintenance, and performance. How a tree is treated in its formative years determines the capacity and need for future maintenance. If you have developing or established landscapes, this session can help determine appropriate care.

This session focuses on pruning practices and strategies for fruit trees and young nursery stock.

You can register for these workshops at the RI Tree website, which features some of the other events, programs, and workshops we offer, as well as our tree care videos and blog.

Proper Planting Techniques Boost a Tree’s Survival Chances

Thinning crowns. Stunted leaves. Dying branches. These signs indicate a tree’s slow and steady decline over the years. But even dead trees have stories to tell. A closer look at a dead tree’s trunk often tells you what caused the tree’s demise.  Healthy tree trunks have solid, continuous bark. Ding tree’s tree’s bark, on the other hand, is broken or has sections missing. it’s a sign that something is wrong.

Bark defects are instructive if you know how to interpret them. They tell you that the tree’s sapwood—its “plumbing”— has died. Sapwood contains millions of rectangular tube-like cells stacked one on top of the other. They feed nutrients and water to the tree. That, in turn, supplies the leaves, stems, and roots with the nourishment they need to survive.

When a plant’s sapwood fails, however, the channeling of these vital plant elements slows. Eventually, it stops. That isn’t good for the tree. Bark defects suggest the tree has suffered from malnutrition and water loss for years. While that information is helpful, it doesn’t explain the tree’s ultimate demise. So, what caused that?

The tree’s trunk or root flare tells you what happened. If there’s no flute-like shape at the flare, someone may have planted the tree too deeply, damaging the tree’s root system and stopping vital nutrients from getting to the tree. That, in turn, set in motion a series of events that weakened the tree’s primary functions and internal structure. Eventually, it leads to its death.

If whoever planted the tree had used the proper planting techniques, the tree might have lived a long time. In other words, the tree’s death was avoidable. Unfortunately, losing a tree because of improper planting techniques isn’t uncommon. That’s why you need to plant a tree using the correct techniques. That boosts its survival chances and ensures the tree gets all the nutrients it needs to survive and thrive.

See our section on tree care tips to learn how to plant a tree correctly and how to ensure it survives during the early stages of growth.

7 Questions to Ask When Deciding to Remove a Tree

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Blog.

Deciding when to remove a tree is challenging for homeowners. Many factors, including the cost of tree work and any emotional ties to the tree, can impact the decision to remove a tree. A dying tree that doesn’t present hazards to people or property can be allowed to die in place without any human intervention.

But hazardous trees with structural weakness that endanger people and property need immediate attention.  Below are seven questions to help you decide if you need to remove a tree. Don Sepe, Sepe Tree Service, a licensed and certified tree removal company, answered the questions.

1.      Does the green stuff growing on my tree mean it’s dying?

No. That’s lichen. Lichen is a slow-growing plant that appears on walls, rocks, and trees. It’s not parasitic. It proliferates when exposed to full sunlight, which explains its profusion on dead trees. That often indicates that the air nearby is relatively pure. Most lichens won’t grow in a smoky or polluted atmosphere.

2.      Do large dead branches indicate that a tree is dying?

Not necessarily. Large dead branches endanger people and property. If less than 25% of the tree’s branches are damaged, the tree can survive. Remove any crossed or rubbing branches. Narrow branch angles—especially those on the main trunk—are prone to splitting. Remove these branches as well. These procedures are best done by an arborist.

3.      Is there trunk damage?

Internal decay in a tree often appears as vertical cracks, seams, dead branch stubs, and large, older wounds. If the tree has less than 25% damage to its trunk, the wounds can gradually heal without permanent injury. If the tree has more than 25% damage to its main trunk, you should remove it.

4.      Is the tree hollow?

Many trees can live for years with hollow trunks. That’s because the connective tissue of the tree—its xylem and phloem—are on the outer edges of the tree. The hollowness, however, compromises the trunk’s strength, making the tree a danger to people and property. So, remove the tree if one-third or more of the tree’s interior is hollow.

5.      Are there large dead branches?

Trees with large dead branches endanger people and property. So, do trees with broken tops. If less than 25% of the tree’s branches are dead, the tree can survive. Remove any crossed or rubbing branches. Narrow branch angles, especially of the main trunk, are also a concern. They’re prone to splitting. If a narrow crotch is too large to remove the two co-dominant leaders, cable them to relieve the strain and prevent them from breaking down. Contact an arborist to perform these procedures.

6.      Our tree is close to our house. Should we remove it?

Trees near a house can present a problem to homeowners, but you don’t always need to remove them. You can “crown raise” a tree to supply about 12-15 ft. of roof and house clearance. That keeps mold from growing on your house and prevents squirrels from jumping to your roof and nesting. You can also use tree growth regulators (TGR), which help control tree and shrub growth. TGRs keep the tree trimmer. Have an arborist come out and look at the tree and help you decide.

7.      Should I call an arborist to do my tree work?

Hiring an arborist to remove a tree is the safest and most cost-effective way to remove a tree. If you use your landscaper to remove the tree, however, make sure that he or she has the proper insurance to do the job. Landscape insurance doesn’t cover staff working at heights over 8 feet in the air. So, if an accident happens, you could be liable for any damage. No one wants that.

Answering these seven questions can help you decide whether to remove a tree. If you’re still not sure, talk with an arborist. He or she can help you make the right decision. If you need to remove a tree, use a professional tree removal service. It’s the best, most cost-effective approach to tree removal.

Sepe Tree Service is a full-service tree care company. Its owner, Don Sepe, Jr., has over 30 years of experience in tree removal and stump grinding. Sepe Tree is available 24 hours a day for emergency service. For more information, call 401-276-2828.

What to Look for in a Christmas Tree

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Archives.

Now that more people are out and about, you’ll probably be getting more visitors during the holidays. Like many people out there, you want the perfect tree for your house or apartment—one that has just the right shape and color with branches sturdy enough to carry the weight of your ornaments.

Picking a tree like that is a challenge—no doubt about it. The summer dryness will affect the tree quality, availability, and choice this Christmas season. So, finding the right tree will be more of a challenge than in other years. We recommend purchasing your tree as soon as possible to avoid any disappointments

The first step in the process is choosing the right evergreen tree. Once you do that, you can start shopping for a tree based on your house’s or apartment’s space. For those looking for something different in a Christmas Tree, you’ll be glad to know that there’s more variety in evergreens than you probably think.

Here is a list of evergreens suitable to cut for a Christmas Tree.

1.            Balsam fir

2.            Concolor fir (White fir)

3.            Colorado Blue Spruce

4.            Douglas Fir

5.            Fraser Fir

6.            Noble Fir

7.            Fraser Fir

8.            Leyland Cypress

9.            Norway Spruce

10.          White Spruce

11.          Scotch Pine

12.          Virginia Pine

13.          White Pine

Each of these trees has its advantages as a Christmas Tree. Balsam fir, for example, is often the most reasonably priced. It’s especially fragrant when first cut. The Concolor Fir is relatively new as a Christmas tree and is increasing in popularity. It has a pleasant aroma and good needle retention. Meanwhile, Leyland Cypress is a popular choice in the southeastern US. It’s an excellent choice for people with allergies.

Christmas trees in Rhode Island are a $6 million business. They’re a critical part of the state’s agricultural industry, according to the RI Tree Growers Association (RITGA). Area farms, says the association, have been growing Christmas trees for over 50 years. Many see generations of families return year after year. Best tree selections include the Balsam Fir, White Fir, Colorado Blue Spruce, and Douglas fir. They have sturdy branching and long needle retention.

Tips on Picking a Christmas Tree

You want a tree that fits the space you’re putting it in and provides the right look once it’s “dressed” up. Below are eight tips to help you do that:

Pick the tree type you want

Match the tree to room dimensions by measuring ceiling height and clearance width in the room where you will place the tree.

Know the maximum trunk diameter for your stand. 

Choose a tree with shorter needles.

Bring a tape measure when picking a tree.

Look at the space between branches.

Choose a fresh tree. Shake or stomp the tree against the ground. If too many needles fall off, pick another tree.

Keep the tree away from space heaters, stoves, fireplaces, etc.

Make a new cut at the bottom before putting it in the stand. Cut a 1/2” wood chip from the bottom of the tree trunk to help the uptake of water by the tree.

Secure the tree to a solid base.

Water, water, water. Fill the water stand daily to maintain tree freshness and needle retention.

Make sure you pick a suitable tree stand. Look for one that holds a lot of water. You’ll spend less time filling the stand with water. If you have a tall, wide room, pick a tree stand for the large tree you choose. A small stand works well if you’re putting your tree on a table. Finally, get an easily adjustable stand so you can level the tree.

When Christmas is over, don’t throw the tree away. Recycle it. Check your city or town’s website to see how to do that.  Above all, don’t burn your tree or the branches. That could present a fire hazard. EHSO.com provides information on recycling trees.

To find a local Christmas tree farm, visit the RITCGA’s website: www.richristmasstrees.com. Contact the Rhode Island Tree Council (RITree) for information on tree care: www.ritree.org. RITree conducts tree identification and care workshops throughout the year. 

RITree Helps Woonsocket Students with Tree Project

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Article.

RITree recently collaborated with the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management (RIDEM) and Riverzedge Arts to help a group of Woonsocket students from the Public Arts Studio create a sculpture representing the teen’s recent education on climate change. Working under a RIDEM Community and Urban Forestry grant, R.I. Tree provided students participating in the project an extensive education on how trees benefit the environment and economy, including through health and a sense of community.

The sculpture—placed in a tree at the back of the Woonsocket Arts Center on Sayles street—serves as a metaphor for climate change and its impact on Rhode Island. The piece consists of a paper-maché ship named the S.S. Ocean State and a Styrofoam squid destroying it. The sculpture follows a design generated by last year’s graduating seniors who were collectively thinking about how to grab people’s attention on climate change. They called the project the Woonsocket Tree Project.

Riverzedge Arts spearheaded the project. The organization is a non-profit organization formed in 2002 by artists, youth development professionals, and community leaders concerned about patterns of violence among disaffected youth in the wake of the Columbine shootings. It uses innovative applied and work-based learning strategies to teach art, design, and critical thinking to the youth of northern R.I., providing both participants and the community with a path to economic and cultural sustainability.