Plant Healthcare

by John Campanini, Technical Director, RI Tree

There are three main reasons why you might need an arborist. A large tree has visible dead limbs or significant cracks, and you need to hire an arborist to do a safety inspection and remove any hazards. A mature tree has broken limbs hanging dangerously after a storm with high winds, and you need an arborist for emergency stabilization or tree removal. Or, a valuable tree appears sickly, has discolored leaves, or shows signs of pests or diseases, and you need an arborist to diagnose the problem and provide proper, long-term treatment. In Rhode Island, certified arborists must meet two requirements: (1) they must obtain a Rhode Island Arborist License, and (2) they must fulfill the requirements for the ISA Certified Arborist credential (or an approved equivalent), which is typically used to qualify for the state license. To qualify for the ISA Certified Arborist exam, you typically need a minimum of three years of full-time, eligible, practical work experience in arboriculture OR a combination of education (like a degree in arboriculture, forestry, or horticulture) and practical experience.

Benefits of Hiring a Certified Arborist

Hiring a certified arborist provides a wide range of benefits that go far beyond simple tree trimming or mulching. Specialists in the art and science of tree care, arborists can:

• Ensure your trees are healthy and thriving
• Conduct professional tree risk assessments
• Provide insurance protection on risks
• Increase property values by maintaining trees
• Proactively maintain trees and identify hazards
• Save you the high cost of tree removal
• Provide proper pruning and planting advice
• Safely execute dangerous work

Put simply, a certified arborist provides the specialized knowledge, proper techniques, and necessary insurance that a non-certified general service provider cannot guarantee, turning your trees into a lasting, valuable, and safe part of your landscape.

Keys Hiring Certified Arborist Rhode Island’s unique coastal environment, with its strong winds, humid summers, and potential for winter salt damage, makes expert tree care essential. When hiring an arborist in the Ocean State, do so carefully.

Here are seven hacks for hiring a certified arborist in Rhode Island:

1. Verify RI arborist license: Ask to see the arborist’s license, then check the RI DEM’s database of licensed arborists to ensure they’re legally compliant to work in the state. Rhode Island arborists must be licensed by the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management (RI DEM).
2. Confirm ISA certification: Beyond the required state license, look for the ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) Certified Arborist credential. This voluntary certification confirms the individual has passed a rigorous exam and maintains high standards of knowledge in tree biology, diagnosis, and proper care.
3. Insist on local insurance verification: Tree work is high-risk. Demand a Certificate of Insurance showing they have General Liability and Worker’s Compensation coverage. Call the insurance company to confirm the policies are current and cover tree-related work in Rhode Island. If an uninsured worker is injured on your property, you could be liable.
4. Research pruning standards and local pests: Ask what pruning standard the arborist follows. Ideally, it should be ANSI A300. He or she should also be familiar with local threats, like the spotted lanternfly, and gypsy moth (spongy moth), and how to manage trees susceptible to salt damage near the coast

5. Talk with at least three arborists: Obtain detailed, written estimates from at least three different certified, licensed arborists. Ensure the bids specify exactly what work will be performed (e.g., pruning specific limbs vs. complete removal) and what clean-up is included. Hire the one you’re most comfortable with.
6. Avoid harmful practices (especially topping): A knowledgeable arborist will never recommend “topping” (the indiscriminate cutting of large branches to stubs), as this severely damages trees and creates hazardous regrowth. Reject any company that suggests this practice.
7. Check for municipal permit requirements: If the work involves a street tree (on or near the town right-of-way) or requires work on your town’s public land, you may need a permit from the local tree warden (who must also be a licensed arborist). Check with your local city or town hall, as this is a common requirement in RI municipalities like Providence and South Kingstown.

Choose an Arborist that Fits Your Needs

Use these seven tips above to help you choose an experienced arborist who fits your specific needs and budget. Obtain multiple bids for the job and don’t always hire the lowest bidder. Also, verify their credentials and ensure they comply with local regulations. That’s critical in Rhode Island. New England’s unique coastal environment—with its strong winds, humid summers, and potential for winter salt damage—makes expert tree care essential.

Large, mature trees, such as those listed on the RI Tree’s Champion Tree webpage, offer significantly greater benefits than smaller trees. Planting them, however, can be a challenge. Doing so in the fall reduces “transplant shock” and gives trees the best chance to establish roots before the stress of a full growing season.

Here arHere are seven tips for big tree care in the fall:

Clean up fallen debris
Heavy piles of leaves or debris. Piles of branches can trap pests, fungal spores, and excess moisture, which may damage the tree’s base. Remove them.
To ensure safety, have an ISA Certified Arborist perform a professional safety inspection, especially if the tree is near a residence, driveway, or utility line, or if you notice any sudden, large, exposed roots, or cracks in the trunk. They can recommend corrective measures like cabling or bracing to support weak limbs against winter weathere seven tips for big tree care in the fall:

1. Water trees deeply
Water your trees thoroughly until the ground freezes. Even as temperatures decrease and leaves fall, trees still need sufficient moisture to prevent drying out. Focus on the root zone, which extends to the tree’s drip line (the edge of the canopy).

2. Apply a layer of mulch
Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch, like wood chips or shredded bark, around the tree’s base. Keep the mulch several inches from the trunk to avoid moisture buildup, which can cause bark rot and disease.

3. Prune dead or damaged Branches
Fall is ideal for pruning dead, diseased, or broken branches. Remove these hazards before winter storms and heavy snow to prevent them from falling and causing damage to people or property.

4. Inspect for pests and diseases
Inspect the trunk and branches for signs of insect damage, fungal growth, or abnormal discoloration. Detecting problems early lets you plan necessary treatments before the spring growing season.

5. Fertilize if necessary
Late fall is ideal for applying a slow-release, deep-root fertilizer, which helps feed the root system. Professional deep-root fertilization is often the most effective approach for large, mature trees.

6. Protect against trunk damage
Protect the trunk from sunscald. Use a commercial tree wrap on the lower trunk or consider installing tree guards to prevent damage from rodents and deer rubbing their antlers. Remove the wrap in the spring.

7. Clean up fallen debris
Heavy piles of leaves or debris. Piles of branches can trap pests, fungal spores, and excess moisture, which may damage the tree’s base. Remove them.

To ensure safety, have an ISA Certified Arborist perform a professional safety inspection, especially if the tree is near a residence, driveway, or utility line, or if you notice any sudden, large, exposed roots, or cracks in the trunk. They can recommend corrective measures like cabling or bracing to support weak limbs against winter weather.

Urban trees often require fertilization. That’s mainly due to the unique characteristics of city soils. Signs urban trees need fertilization include yellowing leaves (chlorosis), thinning canopies, short twigs, stunted growth, branch dieback, a weak response to mild drought, and early leaf drop. If you see these signs, your tree or trees need fertilization.

Here are seven tips for fertilizing trees correctly:

1. Get a soil test first

Get a soil test using a local agricultural extension office or lab. The test can determine the soil pH, which determines how well a tree or plant absorbs available nutrients. (The University of Rhode Island will test soil for free.)

2. Choose the right fertilizer type

Prioritize slow-release nitrogen (N) fertilizers. Since nitrogen is often deficient in the soil and critical for foliage growth, consider a fertilizer with a high nitrogen ratio (like a 3-1-2 or 4-1-1 N-P-K ratio)

3. Fertilize the correct root zone

Spread fertilizer across the entire area under the tree’s canopy, extending at least to the dripline. Keep fertilizer a few inches away from the base of the trunk.

4. Apply at the optimal time

Fertilize in mid-spring after the leaves have emerged and grown to full size. That’s when a plant will benefit the most from fertilizer laden with nutrients to help create more energy.

5. Use the correct application method

Spread granular fertilizer evenly over the mulched area and water it thoroughly. Use an auger or punch bar to create 8–12-inch-deep holes, spaced 2–3 feet apart. Then, spread fertilizer evenly among these holes to get the nutrients below the grass roots.

6. Apply the correct rate

Always follow the rates specified in your soil test report. And use the correct type of fertilizer, at the proper rate, at the right time, and in the correct location.

7. Ensure adequate water and mulch

Water the tree or plant immediately after applying fertilizer to help move the nutrients into the root zone. Maintain a 2–4-inch layer of organic mulch (like wood chips) over the root zone.

Fertilizing trees in urban areas is often a must. So, watch for the signs, like yellowing leaves or premature leaf drop, that tell you your trees may need fertilizing. Then do a soil test and follow the test’s instructions for fertilization.

Do you have fertilization questions? Contact the experts at RI Tree. They’ll guide you through fertilization, saving you time and money.

July was hot, with the average daily high around 84°F (29°C). Several days in July reached the 90s or higher, with some even hitting 100. Rainfall averaged 5 inches, which can keep most soil moist, but still not enough for plants to survive and thrive. If this month is anything like August in other years, it could be just as hot as July, if not hotter.

History indicates that August tends to be at least several degrees hotter in Rhode Island than July. This month often records the highest summer temperatures of the year. By mid-month, plants could begin to show early signs of drought stress, which can negatively impact their growth and development. Combating drought stress can be a challenge.
Drought Stress Symptoms

Drought stress symptoms in plants include cupped and curled leaf edges, wilting of foliage, and new shoots less than a year old. Other signs are yellowing or browning leaves and early dropping of leaves or fruit. Drought-stressed plants may also show stunted growth and overall lack of vigor.

Drought stress also weakens a plant’s defense systems, making it vulnerable to secondary problems like Gypsy moths, root rot, and canker fungi. These “secondary invaders” are often the final cause of death for a distressed tree or plant. As a result, trees and shrubs may need extra watering to protect them from damage.

Challenges to Plants from Drought Stress

Drought stress poses significant challenges for tree care, impacting tree health and increasing susceptibility to other issues:

• Pests during this time include Bark Beetles, which are one of the most well-known groups of pests that capitalize on drought-stressed trees, especially conifers like pine, spruce, and fir. Weakened trees can’t produce enough resin to “pitch out” the beetles, allowing them to tunnel under the bark. Other pests to watch out for include Ambrosia beetles, scale insects and mites, and gypsy moth. (Spongy moth).

• Diseases to watch for include canker fungi, which appear sunken and dead areas on tree bark. Many fungi that cause cankers, such as Cytospora and Nectria, need a stressed host to infect successfully. Drought-induced bark cracking can also let these fungi enter. Also, watch for root rot, which can damage a tree’s root system and make it more vulnerable to various pathogens and vascular wilts, which can block a tree’s water transport system.

Six Steps to Battling Drought Stress
As a caretaker of trees, your role in combating drought stress is crucial for their long-term health and survival. Here are six critical steps you can take to make a significant difference:

1. Water deeply and infrequently: Trees are remarkably resilient. By providing a slow, thorough soak of the entire root zone, you encourage this resilience and enhance their long-term survival. Aim for about one inch of water per week from rain or irrigation. Remember, watering deeply once a week is better than giving shallow, frequent watering.
2. Mulch for moisture retention: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, around the tree’s base. Mulching helps the soil retain moisture, reduces evaporation, and suppresses competing weeds and grass. Keep the mulch a few inches from the tree’s trunk to prevent rot and pest issues.
3. Prioritize trees: Focus on watering your most valuable or vulnerable trees. This step includes newly planted trees (within their first 3-5 years) and mature trees that provide significant shade and are expensive to replace. Brown lawns will recover; dead trees won’t.
4. Avoid fertilizing: During a drought, a tree’s energy should focus on survival not growth. Applying fertilizer can stimulate new growth, which requires more water and can increase the tree’s stress. Wait to fertilize until the drought ends and the tree has recovered.

5. Stop pruning (except for deadwood): Avoid unnecessary pruning of live branches, as this creates wounds that require healing energy. This energy should be conserved during a drought to help the tree cope with stress and survive. Only prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches, as they can harbor pests and diseases.
6. Eliminate competition: Remove turfgrass and weeds from beneath the tree’s canopy. Grass and weeds directly compete with the tree for water and nutrients. Replacing this area with a layer of mulch is an effective way to support the tree.
   Recently Installed Trees

Recently planted plants (up to 3 years after planting) require at least 10 gallons of water per week, which should be doubled for established plants. Additionally, to reduce water evaporation, irrigate either early in the morning or at dusk when the temperature is below the daily high.

Finally, trees and shrubs are nearing the end of their annual growth cycle. The last stage of this cycle involves developing the buds for next year (both vegetative and flowering). By the end of August, these new buds should be visible in the leaf axils, where the leaf attaches to the stem.
Be vigilant and watch for plant drought symptoms that appear when daily temperatures rise above 85°F for 3-4 days in a row or dry conditions persist for more than 10 days.

Need help combating drought stress? Contact RI Tree by phone (401) 764-5885 or email. Our experts can provide proven strategies to help your plants survive and thrive.

Trees fail more often than you think. Various factors can trigger failure. When that happens, the tree can pose significant risks. So, you may need to remove the tree. That can be costly.

Understanding the factors that cause major tree failure can help you save a tree. It can also boost awareness for better tree care practices.

Below are seven causes of major tree failure and how to stop them from devastating a tree. For more information on plant failure, see this blog post)

1. Diseases— They can weaken a tree’s structure, causing it to fail. Root damage and unfavorable weather can also help with diseases. Early detection is critical. Identify the pest, choose the correct control method, and apply it.

• Pests—They can eat away at a tree’s roots, leaves, and/or trunk. That can weaken its structure and boost its disease susceptibility. Identify the pest. Then, choose the correct treatment to eradicate the pest. You can also consult RI Tree on pests and their controls.

• Weather—Severe weather events, like snowstorms and high winds, can cause major tree failure. Inspect your trees after severe weather events. Look for signs of damage. Proper pruning keeps trees healthy and minimizes wind resistance, improving overall health.

• Improper planting— Planting trees too deeply, in the wrong location, or using improper techniques can generate root problems. That. in turn, can cause tree failure. You can’t do much to fix a tree planted incorrectly. You can, however, learn from your mistakes.

• Root damage—Construction, soil compaction, and other activities can damage a tree’s roots, compromising its health and stability. Proper watering, fertilizing, and mulching can help overcome root damage.
• Poor maintenance—Neglecting trees can lead to big problems and eventual failure. Take care of your trees. That includes regular watering, pruning, and mulching. It also includes monitoring signs of disease or pest infestation.
• Age— Mature trees become more susceptible to failure as they age. Proper care can increase a tree’s life. Even with the best care, trees will fail. Remove the tree as soon as you can. (See our blog post on preserving older trees.)

Major tree failure happens all too often. That can cost you big time. Be mindful of the seven major causes of plant failure described above. In severe cases, consult a certified arborist or contact RITree for help. 

If you want to have a healthy tree on your property, you must ensure your soil has plenty of nutrients and organic matter. If the tree doesn’t get these materials from the soil, it could wither and die. Fertilizing your tree is a great way to boost its health, appearance, and lifespan —all while helping benefit the environment. 

Below are seven tips on fertilizing a tree or trees:

1. Choose the right fertilizer: You want a fertilizer that’s right for your situation. Fertilizers include a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Generally, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 12-4-8.

1. Apply fertilizer from early spring to late fall. Those are the best times to fertilize trees in most areas. Don’t fertilize during the winter. It’s the worst time to do it.

• Apply fertilizer over the root zone: This area is beneath the tree’s canopy. Spread the fertilizer evenly using a broadcaster or drop spreader.

• Water the fertilizer thoroughly: Watering helps the nutrients penetrate deep into the soil.

• Sandy soil drains faster than clay soil: You may need to fertilize sandy soil more often than clay soil.

• Fertilize in the fall: If you live in New England, where it can get cold, fertilize in the fall. Plants will store nutrients all winter to return strong in the spring.

• Avoid overfertilizing: That can not only damage plants, it can also pollute the environment. Follow the directions on the fertilizer label.

These tips can help you when it comes to taking care of your trees and shrubs. If you have any questions regarding fertilization, contact an arborist or RI Tree. Asking for help from a professional never hurts.

Trees need plenty of nutrients to grow healthy and strong. If they don’t get them, they’ll wither and die. The soil provides plenty of nutrients for trees. But nutrient depletion over time, poor soil management, natural factors like soil type, and pollution (acid rain and agricultural runoff) can strip nutrients from the soil and make it less rich. So can soil erosion, excessive tilling, overfertilizing, soil that’s too sandy, and acid rocks. 

To preserve trees on your property, you must ensure your soil has plenty of nutrients and organic matter. Below are five signs you need to fertilize your trees and shrubs to boost your soil’s nutrient content.

• Yellowing leaves
• Stunted growth
• Poor flowering
• Thin foliage
• Dead or dying branches

If you see any or all of these signs with your trees, they indicate that your soil may lack the nutrients needed to grow healthy trees. Testing your soil will tell you for sure.

Testing Your Soil

Testing your property’s soil can uncover any problems you have with it. You can test soil anytime the ground isn’t frozen. The best time to test your soil, though, is in the spring. That way, you can address any issues before planting. If you live in Providence, you can get your soil tested for free. You can also get a soil test through URI’s Master Gardener program. Consult a local arborist or RI Tree for help or advice on soil testing.

The Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Illinois, recently conducted a five-year study designed to evaluate the effects of organic and inorganic fertilizers on soil quality and tree growth. Its researchers tested several substrates, including hardwood mulch, compost, aerated compost tea, synthetic NPK fertilizer, and a commercial biological product (mycorrhizae). The study shows that soil compost and mulch boost soil quality the most, while mulch and compost increase tree growth the most.

Benefits of Fertilizing Trees

Fertilizing benefits trees enormously. Put simply, it’s a cost-effective way to improve a tree’s health, appearance, and lifespan of a tree—all while helping benefit the environment. Here are several benefits of fertilizing trees:

• Boost tree growth and vigor
• Increase resistance to stress
• Improve full fruit and floor production
• Extend life span
• Enhance esthetic value
• Improve the quality of air
• Cut noise pollution

Keep in mind that trees absorb pollutants from the air and release oxygen. Plus, they reduce noise pollution by blocking sound waves.

Tips on Fertilizing Trees

The first step when fertilizing trees and shrubs is choosing the right fertilizer. Look for the letters NPK on a fertilizer label. That indicates the fertilizers include a nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium mixture—three critical plant nutrients. Types of NPK fertilizers include balanced, incomplete, and organic.

If your trees have yellow leaves or show stunted growth, the soil may be deficient in nitrogen. In that case, you’ll want a fertilizer rich in nitrogen content. Otherwise, you may want a good “balanced” fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 12-4-8

Here are six additional tips on fertilizing trees and shrubs:

• Apply fertilizer from early spring to late fall. That’s the best time to fertilize trees in most areas. Don’t fertilize during the winter. It’s the worst time to do it.

• Spread the fertilizer over the tree’s root zone. That’s the area beneath its canopy. Apply the fertilizer evenly with help from a broadcaster or a drop spreader.

• Water the fertilizer thoroughly. That will help the nutrients penetrate deep into the soil.

• Sandy soil drains faster than clay soil. So, you may need to fertilize sandy soil more often than if you have clay soil.

• Fertilize in the fall in areas with cold winters, like New England. Trees will store nutrients all winter so they can return strong in the spring.

• Avoid overfertilizing. That can not only damage plants, it can also pollute the environment. Follow the directions on the fertilizer label.

These tips can help you when it comes to taking care of your trees and shrubs. If you have any questions regarding fertilization, contact an arborist or RI Tree. Asking for help from a professional never hurts.

Watering plants is the key to helping plants to survive and thrive. They need water for not only photosynthesis—the process by which they convert sunlight into energy—but also to transport nutrients throughout the plant.

Water also helps plants absorb critical nutrients. Without water, plants can’t dissolve the soil’s minerals and nutrients needed for growing and developing. Plus, water provides turgor pressure, which keeps plant cells rigid and upright. Lacking turbo pressure, plants will wilt and die.

Below are tips we suggest to people to keep your plants hydrated:

• Research your plant’s water needs:
• Cluster plants with similar water needs
• Water deeply and infrequently:
• Water early morning or late evening
• Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation system
• Mulching correctly
• Check soil moisture

One caveat when it comes to watering plants: don’t over-water. It can lead to root rot—a deadly fungal disease. Also, make sure you adjust your schedule to the region’s weather. Water more during dry periods. Water less during cool, rainy periods. Finally, watch for water stress.

So, you’ve just made the best decision of your life: to plant some trees! Maybe you’ve pick out the tree species and are just realizing wait – when should I plant this, where should I plant this… HOW should I plant this?! Well fear not, as the Rhode Island Tree Council has done this roughly 366,948 times and has some tips to share with you.

WHEN TO PLANT A TREE:

The two best seasons for tree planting are spring and fall. People are usually worried that a tree won’t make it through the winter, but trees go dormant then (akin to hibernation). The season that stresses tree out the most is typically summer, when a tree can dry out and overheat. Planting in the fall gives your tree 1. two growing seasons (fall and spring) which can really help roots take hold before summer and 2. a healthy level of precipitation. Make sure you have at least six weeks before freezing temperatures (so, early October is a good deadline).

Spring can be a good time to plant a tree as well. However, you risk it being 1. too rainy and therefore the soil not being stable enough and 2. not establishing itself strongly enough before the heatwave of the summer. However, one major bonus of spring is that many nurseries stock up during that time so there can be more to chose from.

WHERE TO PLANT A TREE:

The time of the year you plant your tree won’t matter if it ends up going in the wrong spot. Make sure it isn’t too close to existing structures. You’ll want to research how much sun, wind, water the tree prefers and pick a spot with those conditions. Lastly, you might want to call the free 811 service to make sure there aren’t any underground utilities that your tree’s roots will be disturbing.

HOW TO PLANT A TREE:

Trees will typically come in a container (generally plastic for temporary use), bare root (not grown in soil), or bagged and burlapped (B&B) (dug out of the ground and the roots and soil are being held together by burlap and wire). While they all have slight modifications of how to plant them, there are some general guidelines:

1. Plant your tree within a few days! And make sure to never let the roots completely dry out in the interim.
2. Dig your hole at least twice the size of the root ball/root mass.
3. The root collar (the area where the roots join the main stem) should be level or just above final grade after being planted.
4. Make sure the tree is straight! It will straighten out over time if slightly off, but best to start it off in the right direction.
5. Back-fill with existing moist soil.
6. Gently compact the soil.

A few things to note: if your tree came bare rooted it is especially advisable to stake the tree until the roots take hold. If your tree came in a container, make 4 vertical cuts in the cardinal directions by the roots. The roots most likely are too compacted from being confined to a container, by cutting them you not only stimulate root growth, but prevent girdling (when roots encircle other roots or the tree and choke it, causing injury or death). If your tree was B&B don’t remove the burlap until after the tree goes in the hole.

WATERING:

The tree will be in stress after being transplanted- the best thing to do is give it adequate water. Water directly at the base so the root’s directly take the water instead of nearby vegetation or evaporation. Roughly one gallon of water is needed per inch of diameter on the trunk.

MULCHING:

Mulch will help keep the tree moist and happy. Use up to 4” and keep space between the trunk and the mulch.  

Below are some drawings that give extra information about how to plant your tree, be it on a hill or on flat ground.

Lastly, make sure to enjoy yourself! Planting a tree does SO MUCH for the surrounding area. It doesn’t just add beauty throughout the season, it provides shelter and food for wildlife, dampens the urban heat island effect, filters water, captures carbon, promotes healthy soil, prevents erosion and so much more. So step back, take a look at your tree and pat yourself on the back for doing something wonderful today.

by John Campanini

Technical Director, RI Tree Council

Mature trees provide numerous benefits for both you and your property. But caring for them is critical to ensuring they remain healthy enough to provide these benefits. You have even more incentive to maintain the tree’s health of the tree if the tree is historical. Generally speaking, mature trees require the same care as younger trees.

But older trees are much less tolerant of sudden changes—even positive ones. So, if you think an older tree is in trouble, don’t hesitate to call an arborist or the Rhode Island Tree Council for help. They can provide strategies that can help you save an older tree. In the meantime, this article provides proven tips on caring for and preserving mature trees.

Common Diseases Affecting Mature Trees

Mature trees can suffer from a variety of disease problems. Anthracnose, for instance, which causes unsightly dark, sunken lesions on leaves, stems, and flowers is common among mature deciduous trees, especially sycamore, ash, and oak. Tree diseases weaken trees and make them more vulnerable to severe storms. Common diseases affecting mature trees include root rot, fungal infections, and bark beetles.  

• Root rot is a deadly disease that can ravage trees. It can weaken a tree so much that it leans or breaks near the soil line. Wilting and discoloration, and dropping of a plant’s lower leaves are all signs your tree has this disease. Root rot types include phytophthora, armillaria, black, and cotton. All types of root rot are fatal. So, your best bet to preserve an older tree is to prevent this disease from occurring.
•  Tree fungus is common among trees. Once fungus spores contact a tree, they grow, enter, and feed on it. But not all tree fungi are bad. Some even benefit trees. If you see mushrooms or other fungi growing around or on a tree, chances are good your tree has a fungus. Other fungi, however, are hidden below ground. Then there are those funguses that look different than expected. The loss of vigor or the discoloration of leaves is a sure sign that your tree has a fungus.
• Bark beetles breed between the bark and wood of a tree. Some species attack living trees. But most feed on weakened, dying, or dead trees. Bark beetles tend to attack one part of a tree. Some species of bark beetles speed the decomposition of wood and forest renewal. Other species can invade and kill a tree. Trees attack bark beetles by releasing their pitch or sap, which appears as reddish-brown or white blobs on the tree. If the blob is white, the tree has successfully defended itself.

If you think your older tree has any of these common problems, you need to eliminate the threats as quickly as possible. Letting them linger can kill an older tree.

Pruning Older Trees to Enhance Growth 

Pruning an older tree is essential to maintaining its health. Pruning enhances the tree’s beauty, promotes its growth and development, and improves its shape and structure. Pruning also reduces the risk of disease and pests invading a tree while improving air circulation and supporting its longevity by encouraging new growth. 

But you need to prune wisely and at the right time. If done incorrectly or at the wrong time, pruning can harm older trees or, at the very least, inhibit their growth. So, when is the best time to prune an older tree? The best time to prune older trees is when you see dead branches. Cut them away carefully so you don’t cause a more critical wound. But be careful when pruning branches. You don’t want them to fall and injure someone or harm your property.

 Boosting Soil Health Protects Mature Trees

Enhancing soil health for older trees is another way to protect older trees from pests, insects, and diseases. Using natural fertilizers like compost, manure, and bone meal to enrich the soil with essential nutrients, for example, can boost soil health. Applying the proper soil preparation, irrigation, and fertilization techniques boost your tree’s health and make it robust enough to withstand common insect and pest infestations.

 Watering Older Trees Helps Them Thrive

Watering the appropriate amount for your tree type can also help mature trees thrive. Minus a soaking rain, water regular monthly deep watering is recommended. You may also want to remove competing plants near a tree. Removing built-up soil from around the root crown also helps. It can hide defects, create areas of decay, or trap moisture from around the root crown, creating the perfect environment for fungus.

Mature trees are an essential part of our environment, providing many benefits to people and the environment. They can provide shade, cut air pollution, reduce stormwater runoff, and act as a habitat for wildlife. Older trees can also be treasures with great sentimental value. They often have much history attached to them—especially if you live in a house you were born and raised in. But you must take care of them to keep them healthy and strong. So, don’t hesitate to call an arborist or the Rhode Island Tree Council if your older tree needs help.

John Campanini is technical director of the Rhode Island Tree Council (RITree). A graduate of the University of Rhode Island, he was city forester for Providence for more than twenty years before retiring.