Skip to main content

(401) 764-5885

Achieve Perfect Landscaping: Seven Critical Mid-winter Tree Care Hacks!

Written by John Campanini on . Posted in Blog, Seasonal, Tree Care, Tree Care Tips.

by: John Campanini Jr., Technical Director, RI Tree

Winter in New England is hard on trees. Unlike regions with a steady deep freeze, our coastal influence and frequent “January Thaws” create a cycle of freezing and thawing that’s often more damaging than the cold itself. Additional challenges for winter tree care in New England, are the use of road salt, winter burn, heavy snow and ice loading, animal girdling and feeding, winter-active invasive pests, and mechanical damage from plowing the region’s roads

Beating these challenges isn’t easy. Arborists and homeowners need to stay abreast of what’s happening in the region to help trees survive. Misconceptions about winter tree care, however, can lead to “passive damage”—harm that isn’t immediately visible until the following spring or summer. When we act on poor advice, we often disrupt the tree’s internal “plumbing” or its natural defense mechanisms. Put another way, misconceptions about how trees handle the cold often lead to avoidable damage.

Below are seven common mid-winter tree care tips that can physically and biologically hurt your trees:

1.      Watering prevents mid-winter desiccation

When a tree (especially an evergreen) goes months without water because the homeowner assumes it is “asleep,” it often suffers from physiological drought. In other words, it can lead to desiccation. Even in the mildest of winters, New England winds pull moisture out of needles and bark. If the roots are in dry soil, they can’t replace the water they’ve lost. This causes the cells to collapse and die, leading to “winter burn.” By spring, you aren’t looking at a sick tree—you’re looking at a tree that partially dehydrated to death.

2.      Shaking snow can cause vascular snap

Trying to save a bending branch by shaking it can lead to vascular snap—an internal fracturing of water-conducting tissues caused by shaking brittle, frozen branches, which disrupts sap flow even if the wood appears physically intact. Shaking or beating a branch doesn’t just risk a clean break; it can cause microscopic cracks in the xylemand phloem (the tree’s circulatory system). Even if the branch doesn’t fall off, it may never “plumb” water again, causing it to die slowly over the next two years.

3.      Overfertilizing can cause a cellular explosion

Applying nitrogen-heavy fertilizer in mid-winter can trigger a hormonal “wake up” call at the worst times. Nitrogen encourages the tree to produce new, tender cells. If a “January Thaw” is followed by a typical New England deep freeze, the water inside those new, un-hardened cells freezes, expands, and literally explodes the cell walls. This leaves the tree with blackened “dieback” and a depleted energy reserve.

 4.      Wound paint creates a fungal incubator

Using tar or paint to “seal” a pruning cut traps moisture against the wood. Trees don’t heal; they compartmentalize (seal off) wounds using a process called CODIT. By painting the wound, you are essentially building a “greenhouse” for anaerobic bacteria and wood-decay fungi. This greenhouse prevents the tree from forming its own natural “callus wood” and encourages rot to spread deep into the trunk.

5.     Treating trees with dormant oils stops infestation

Assuming that a night in Providence killed the pests leads to a scouting vacuum. Invasives like the Hemlock Woolly Adelgid have evolved a form of “biological antifreeze” in their systems. If you don’t treat them with dormant oils or mechanical scraping in the winter, their populations will explode unchecked the moment the first leaf appears, often overwhelming a tree that is already stressed by winter weather.

6.     Sap flow is a sign of positive root pressure

If a homeowner panics because a Maple is “bleeding” sap after a winter prune, they might apply harmful chemicals or sealants to “stop the leak.” Sap flow is actually a sign of positive root pressure and health. Attempting to stop it is like trying to stop a healthy person from sweating. The “bleeding” actually helps flush the wound of potential pathogens. Using sealants alone interferes with this natural cleansing process.

7.      Bark is living tree tissue

Thinking bark is an “inert shield” leads people to ignore the south-facing side of young trees. Bark is living tissue. On a sunny 35°F Day in Rhode Island, the dark bark on the south side can reach 60°F, “waking up” the cambium layer. When the sun drops, that tissue flash-freezes. This creates a sunscald wound—a massive vertical strip of dead bark that can girdle and kill a young tree within a single season.

Use the tips above to prevent passive damage to trees—damage that can’t be seen until spring or summer. This activity wrecks a tree’s “internal plumbing” or its natural defenses. So, if you live in New England, address those mid-winter problems right away when it comes to tree care. It will save you time and money.

Questions about winter tree care? Contact experts at RITree. Or call (401) 764-5885. They’ll help you steer clear of winter tree care myths and boost the health of your trees.

Seven Critical Mid-winter Tree Care Hacks!

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Blog, Tree Care Tips.

Misconceptions about winter tree care can lead to “passive damage”—harm that isn’t immediately visible until the following spring or summer. That’s especially true if you live in New England.

Below are seven common mid-winter tree care tips that can physically and biologically hurt trees:

1.      Watering prevents mid-winter desiccation

When trees go months without water, it can lead to desiccation and winter burn—even with Evergreens. Even in mild winters, New England winds can drain needles and bark. If the roots are in dry soil, they can’t replace the water they’ve lost. 

2.      Shaking snow can cause a vascular snap

Shaking or beating a branch with snow can cause vascular snap as well as microscopic cracks in the xylemand phloem (the tree’s circulatory system). To treat snow on branches, gently remove heavy, wet snow using an upward, sweeping motion with a broom to prevent breakage.

3.      Overfertilizing can cause a cellular explosion

Applying nitrogen-heavy fertilizer in mid-winter encourages the tree to produce new, tender cells. A “January thaw” followed by a New England deep freeze can cause the water in those new cells to harden. This activity leaves trees with blackened “dieback” and a depleted energy reserve.

4.      Wound paint creates a fungal incubator

Trees don’t heal; they compartmentalize (seal off) wounds using a process called CODIT. By painting the wound, you are essentially building a “greenhouse” for anaerobic bacteria and wood-decay fungi. Treating trees with dormant oils stops infestation.

5.      Treating trees with dormant oils stops infestation

Some invasive pests, like the Hemlock Woolly Adelgid, have evolved a form of “biological antifreeze” in their systems. If you don’t treat them with dormant oils or mechanical scraping in the winter, their populations will explode.  

6.      Sap flow is a sign of positive root pressure

Trying to stop it is like trying to stop a healthy person from sweating. The “bleeding” helps flush potential pathogens from the wound. Using sealants alone interferes with this natural cleansing process.

7.      Bark is living tree tissue

When the sun drops, bark can flash-freeze, creating a sunscald wound—a massive vertical strip of dead bark that can girdle and kill a young tree. Prevent sunscald damage by wrapping young trunks with white tree guards or burlap.

Questions about winter tree care? Contact experts at RITree. Or call (401) 764-5885. They’ll help you steer clear of winter tree care myths and boost the health of your trees.

Dormant Oils: An Eco-friendly Strike Against Pests

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Article, Blog, Insect/Disease Issues, Tree Care.

Oils are often recommended as a “clean slate” treatment for professional arborists and eco-conscious homeowners. Oils are highly refined petroleum or plant-based products (such as mineral, canola, or soybean oil) used as non-toxic insecticides and miticides.

Applied to trees and shrubs during late winter to early spring, these oils are exceptionally effective against pests that “hide” in the bark over winter, such as aphids, mites, caterpillars, and scale insects. 

Timing is critical with dormant oils. So is the weather. If you apply them too early, the pests aren’t active enough to be smothered; too late, and you can “burn” new leaves.

  • Temperature: Apply when the air temperature is between40°F and 70°F.
  • The 24-Hour Rule: Ensure temperatures will stay above freezing for at least 24 hours after application.
  • Dryness: Apply on a clear, non-windy day when rain is not expected for 24–48 hours to ensure the oil dries and sticks properly.

Not all trees tolerate oil well, however. Before spraying, check the label for these specific sensitivities:

  • Aesthetic Damage: BlueSpruce and Blue Junipers will lose their signature blue color and turn green. The oil dissolves the waxy “bloom” on the needles that creates the blue hue (it takes 1–2 years for new growth to restore the color).
  • Phytotoxicity (Tissue Burn): Maples (especially Japanese and Red), Black Walnut, Hickory, Beech, and Redbud are notoriously sensitive to oil and can suffer branch dieback if the concentration is too high or timing is off.
  • Chemical Conflicts: Never apply dormant oil within 30 days of a sulfur-based treatment, as the combination is highly toxic to plants.

Dormant oils protect trees from destructive pests by suffocating insects and their eggs before they hatch. Oils clog the breathing pores of pests like scale insects, mites, and aphids, stopping infestations in their tracks.

Applying them during the dormant season reduces the need for synthetic chemicals later on, safeguarding pollinators and beneficial insects inactive during winter. But they need to apply at the right time and the right amount.

See our blog post for more information on dominant oils.

Dominate Your Landscape: Use Biocontrol to Defeat Deadly Pests

Written by John Campanini on . Posted in Article, Blog, Insect/Disease Issues, Pests to Watch.

by John Campanini, Technical Directors, RITree

For years, the standard response to a pest infestation was a “scorched earth” policy. If a pest was killing your trees, you sprayed a chemical cocktail to kill it—and, inadvertently, everything else in the vicinity.

But as our environmental awareness grew and chemical resistance turned “superbugs” into a reality, things changed. Looking for a more surgical solution, homeowners, scientists, and farmers began turning to nature’s “hired guns”: biological control.

What’s biological control? Biological control, or biocontrol, is the practice of using living organisms—predators, parasites, and pathogens—to manage pest populations. It’s not a new concept. In fact, it’s rather old.

Chinese citrus growers used predatory ants to defend their trees against caterpillars as early as 324 BC. Over the years, biocontrol has gained popularity, especially in tree care. Today, it’s a cornerstone of sustainable agriculture and tree care, proven time and time again.

Benefits of Biocontrol

For long-lived organisms like trees—whether in a vast forest or a suburban backyard—this approach provides unique advantages that chemical treatments can’t match:

  • Long-term, self-sustaining protection
  • Surgical precision (target specificity)
  • High return on investment
  • Reach the unreachable pests.
  • Environmental and public health safety

In urban areas and parks, chemical drift poses a significant liability. Biological control removes the risk of toxic exposure to humans, pets, and local water tables. Below, we take a look at three key players in biocontrol.

Predators: Free-Living Hunters

Predators are the front-line combatants in this battle. These are the insect world’s generalists, actively hunting and consuming prey. Predators don’t just kill; they establish a presence. In a healthy ecosystem, a resident population of predators acts as a permanent security detail, keeping pest numbers below the “economic threshold” where they cause significant damage.

Two critical predators are:

  • Ladybugs (Coccinellidae): Perhaps the most famous biocontrol agent, a single ladybug can consume up to 5,000 aphids in its lifetime. They are the “infantry” of the garden, providing a visible and effective defense against soft-bodied pests.
  • Green Lacewings: Often called “aphid lions” in their larval stage, these voracious hunters use hooked mandibles to seize prey and inject paralyzing venom.

Other predators critical in this battle include ground beetles (Carabids), mealybug destroyers, rove beetles, minute pirate bugs, and hoverfly larvae (Syrphids).

Parasitoids: Surgical Strikes

If predators are the infantry, parasitoids are their special forces. Most parasitoids are tiny wasps or flies that have a more gruesome, yet highly effective, method of operation. A female parasitoid wasp, such as the Trichogramma, will locate a host (often a caterpillar or an egg) and use a needle-like organ called an ovipositor to inject its own eggs inside the victim.

As the wasp larvae hatch, they consume the host from the inside out, eventually emerging as adults to repeat the cycle. This method is targeted. Unlike broad-spectrum pesticides, for example, a specific wasp species usually targets only one pest, leaving bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects unharmed.

Pathogens: Microscopic Hitmen

The smallest hired guns are invisible to the naked eye. These are the bacteria, fungi, and viruses known as microbial biocontrol agents. The most famous of these is Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt. This naturally occurring soil bacterium produces proteins toxic to specific insect larvae. When a caterpillar eats a leaf treated with Bt, the protein binds to its gut lining, causing it to stop feeding and die within days.

Other microscopic agents include:

  • Entomopathogenic Fungi: Species like Beauveria bassiana act like a “living mold” that grows through the insect’s exoskeleton, eventually mummifying the pest.
  • Nematodes: Microscopic roundworms that hunt soil-dwelling pests like grubs, entering their bodies and releasing lethal bacteria.

Biocontrol: Successes and Failures

The history of biocontrol is a tale of spectacular wins and cautionary disasters:

  • The Prickly Pear Victory

In the early 1900s, the Prickly Pear cactus (an invasive species) overran 60 million acres of Australian land. The solution? Introducing the Cactoblastis moth from South America. Its larvae bored into the cacti so efficiently that, within a decade, the “Green Desert” was reclaimed for agriculture. It remains one of the greatest successes in ecological history.

  • The Cane Toad Disaster

Conversely, the 1935 introduction of the Cane Toad to Australia to control cane beetles is the ultimate warning against “unhinged” biocontrol. The toads didn’t eat the beetles (which lived high on the stalks), but they did eat almost everything else. Lacking natural predators and being highly toxic, they became a massive invasive threat themselves.

What’s the takeaway here? Modern biocontrol requires years of rigorous quarantine and host-specificity testing before a new agent is ever released into the wild.

The Future of the “Hired Gun”

As we approach 2030, the demand for “pesticide-free” and “residue-free” food is fueling a boom in the biocontrol industry. We are transitioning from a philosophy of eradication to one of management, with maintaining a balance as a primary goal. By using nature’s hired guns, we’re not just protecting trees and crops; we’re restoring the intricate web of checks and balances that kept the world green long before the first chemical factory was built.

Educational materials on biological control are widely accessible through agricultural extension services and conservation organizations, such as RI Tree. These materials— ranging from “Quick Tips” for home gardeners to technical guides for farmers and more—are often called “Field Guides” or “Pest Notes.”

Discover the Green Secrets: 7 Ways to Responsibly Dipose of Your Artificial Christmas Tree

Written by John Campanini on . Posted in Article, Blog, Seasonal.

By John Campanini, Technical Director

Did you buy an artificial Christmas tree this year? Many did. Most artificial trees are made from PVC and metal. While this combination of materials boosts the trees’ durability, it prevents them from breaking down in landfills, where they can remain largely unchanged for hundreds of years. Ideally, you want to keep an artificial tree for 10 to 20 years to offset its carbon footprint from manufacturing and shipping.

However, if you discard the tree after 6 or 7 years (its average lifespan), you incur a significant net environmental loss compared to a real tree that can be mulched or composted. More importantly, the artificial trees can remain in landfills for hundreds, or even thousands, of years, locking in their environmental impact, leaching toxic additives into the ground, and shedding microplastics.

If you’re at all environmentally conscious, disposing of artificial trees in landfills isn’t an option. Neither is recycling them. They’re “composite” products that can’t be separated into their individual materials. However, their durability makes them outstanding candidates for donation, resale, or creative upcycling.

Below are seven practical things you can do with your artificial tree after the holidays:

1. Donate it to local organizations

If your tree is still in good condition, many non-profits would love to have it for next year. This is a great way to spread holiday cheer to those who might not have the budget for a tree. Nursing homes, hospitals, local schools, or small community churches are all places you could donate your tree to after Christmas. Organizations like Goodwill or The Salvation Army will accept artificial trees in their original boxes.

2. Transform it into wreaths and garlands

If the tree is starting to look “bald” or the stand is broken, don’t throw it out. The individual branches are perfectly usable for smaller decor. Use wire cutters to snip branches and wrap them around a wire frame. You can also twist several branches together to create a lush green runner for your mantel or staircase.

3. Convert it into a “winter” or Valentine’s tree

You don’t have to pack the tree away immediately. Many people “winterize” their trees to keep the cozy vibe through January, which you can do by removing the red and green; replace them with white lights, pinecones, and faux snowflakes. You can also spray-paint the tips of the tree pink or red and decorate it with hearts for a February conversation piece.

4. Sell it on Online Marketplaces

Artificial trees can be expensive, so there is a high demand for used ones in good condition. Use Facebook Marketplace, Nextdoor, or Craigslist to promote your tree’s availability. If you sell it in January, you might get a lower price, but it clears up your storage space immediately.

5. Dismantle for scrap metal recycling

While the PVC “needles” are rarely recyclable, the internal frame of an artificial tree is usually made of high-quality steel or aluminum, which you can recycle. Use pliers to strip the plastic branches away from the central metal pole. Then, take the metal pole and the metal branch centers to a local scrap metal recycler. They may even pay you something for the weight!

6. Contribute to school art projects

Art teachers and community centers often seek textured materials for crafts. Branch tips from your tree, for example, can be used for “evergreen” dioramas, architectural models, or even as stamps for textured painting. This approach has two benefits: It keeps plastic out of the landfill while supporting local education.

7. Organize a proper bulk pickup

If the tree is truly at the end of its life and cannot be reused, do not put it in your standard recycling bin—it could jam the machines. Instead, add it to a bulk pickup pile. Most cities, however, require you to schedule a “Bulk Item” pickup. Of course, you may need to break the tree down into its 3–4 main sections and place them in a specific box or bag as per your local waste management guidelines. Always follow these guidelines. They save time and money.

Donation Centers in Rhode Island

For damaged or no longer usable trees, Rhode Island residents can dispose of them through the city’s bulky waste program. Other donation centers include:

  • Savers—This organization is a convenient option in the North Providence area for those who want to donate household seasonal items. It generally accepts boxed artificial trees that include all their parts. 
  • Goodwill, Providence, RI, Attended Donation Center—It serves as a primary drop-off point for those wishing to support Goodwill’s mission. This location is part of their larger Rhode Island campus and is dedicated to receiving public donations.
  • Salvation Army Thrift Store & Donation Center—Located on Pitman Street, this non-profit is a well-known charity hub in the East Side of Providence. They accept various holiday items, including artificial trees, to stock their thrift store, with proceeds benefiting their adult rehabilitation programs.
  • Rhode Island Resource Recovery / Central Landfill—Many artificial trees have heavy-duty metal frames. If you are willing to strip away the plastic needles, the metal center can be recycled as scrap metal at the landfill in Johnston or through a local private scrap yard.

If you live in Providence, you can schedule a free pickup for up to 3 bulky items per week. Artificial trees are considered bulky waste. You must call Waste Management at 800-972-4545 or use their online portal to schedule an appointment before putting the tree at the curb.

Real or Fake? Transform Your Holiday by Choosing the Perfect Christmas Tree

Written by John Campanini on . Posted in Blog, Seasonal.

What kind of Christmas tree are you buying this year—real or artificial? Choosing a tree can make or break a holiday, so you need to get it right. That’s easier said than done. Consider the full lifecycle of each option before buying your tree helps. But even with that, picking the right Christmas tree can be challenging. Cost, appearance, and convenience in a Christmas tree are obviously critical.

You also need to consider the tree’s environmental impact, which can be significant. A Christmas tree impacts the planet in ways we probably never think of, such as our carbon footprint, climate change, waste and landfill use, resource depletion, and ecosystem quality. From an ecological standpoint, the most critical factors in picking a Christmas tree are reuse and end-of-life disposal.

Below is a quick overview of the impact of Christmas trees on our ecosystem and what you should keep in mind if you want to make an eco-friendly choice.

Real Trees: The More Natural Choice

Buying a real Christmas tree seems like the natural choice. Most trees come from dedicated tree farms rather than wild forests. These farms grow millions of trees each year across North America and Europe, planting anywhere from one to three new seedlings for every tree they harvest. During their 7–12-year growth period at the farm, the trees do a lot of good, including absorbing carbon dioxide, producing oxygen, and stabilizing soil. 

Real trees have several advantages. Their root systems, for example, help reduce erosion, and the land they occupy can serve as habitat for local wildlife. A real tree’s most critical advantage comes at the end of its life cycle. When composted, mulched, or used in habitat restoration projects—common in many communities—real trees break down naturally, returning nutrients to the soil. Even when sent to landfills, they decompose over time.

Many tree farms, however, use chemical fertilizers and pesticides to boost tree health and appearance. These regulated agricultural chemicals can have a negative environmental impact, similar to those in other kinds of farming. Pesticides and fertilizers can pollute soil and water, harming biodiversity and organisms like pollinators. Transporting trees—sometimes hundreds of miles—also produces emissions.

Tree Farms in Rhode Island

Consumers can further lower the environmental impact of real trees by purchasing locally grown varieties and ensuring proper disposal. The most environmentally friendly real tree is one that’s sourced nearby and given a second life through recycling programs.

Below are some places where Rhode Islanders can buy real trees:

  • Big John Leyden’s Tree Farm, West Greenwich
  • Pachet Brook Tree Farm, Tiverton
  • The Farmer’s Daughter, South Kingston
  • Rossi’s Tree Farm, Cranston
  • Bedrock Tree Farm, South Kingstown
  • Riverside Christmas Tree Farm, Charlestown
  • Sweet Berry Farm, Middletown.

These are just a few of the Christmas tree farms you can target when buying a real tree this year. If you live near the state’s borders, Massachusetts and Connecticut also have local tree farms you can buy from.

Unlock Juicier Harvests: Master 6 Simple Fruit Tree Pruning Secrets!

Written by John Campanini on . Posted in Blog, Pruning/Trimming.

by John Campanini, Technical Director, RI Tree

The best time to prune trees is when they’re dormant. That’s typically in late fall, winter, or early spring (before new growth begins). These times are ideal for pruning because trees are resting. This minimizes tree stress and sets the stage for vigorous growth during the season.

Pruning mature shade trees is straightforward. If you have fruit trees, however, pruning goals and techniques differ from those for mature shade trees. Pruning fruit trees isn’t just about keeping them healthy; it’s a powerful management tool ensuring a consistent, high-quality, easy-to-harvest crop.

Prune During Dormant Seasons

Pruning fruit trees, especially during the dormant season, is a critical yearly practice with three crucial objectives:

• Maximize fruit production and quality
• Improve light and air flow
• Maintain structural integrity and the tree’s lifespan.
Pruning removes excess flower buds and branches that could produce fruit. By reducing the amount of fruit the tree produces, the remaining fruit can access more of the tree’s stored energy and nutrients, resulting in larger, better-tasting, and more uniform fruit.

Pome Fruit Pruning versus Stone Fruit Pruning
Pome fruit trees (apples, pears) produce fruit on spurs—short, permanent structures on wood two years or older. Pruning focuses on training a central leader to encourage sunlight penetration and preserve these long-lived spurs.
Stone fruit trees (peaches, plums) produce fruit on mostly one-year-old wood. Pruning must stimulate vigorous new growth annually and maintain an open vase shape. This approach delivers maximum sun into the tree’s center and all new branches.
Essential Fruit Tree Pruning Tips
Here are six essential hacks for pruning your fruit trees in winter:

  1. Master the timing: late winter is best
    Prune when the tree is fully dormant, after all the leaves have fallen but before the buds start to swell. This task is typically performed in winter, from December to March, in most temperate regions. Pruning cuts made too early in winter can be vulnerable to frost damage.
    Cutting closer to spring allows the wound to heal almost immediately when the tree breaks dormancy, reducing the chance of disease. Always prune on sunny, dry days. Moisture can help spread disease pathogens into the fresh cuts.
  2. Start with branches
    Eliminate problem branches first. This step gives you a clearer view of the remaining structure: Remove any wood that’s clearly dead, shows signs of disease (like cankers), or is broken. This cut is crucial for tree health.
    Prune branches growing straight up, known as “water sprouts” (they rarely bear fruit), or any branches growing inward toward the tree’s center. They can overcrowd the canopy. You should also prune branches that cross over or rub against each other, which can create wounds that serve as easy entry points for pests and diseases.
  3. Open the canopy for sunlight and air
    The main goal of winter pruning is to create an open structure that lets sunlight and air reach inside the tree. Form a “vase” or Christmas tree shape for peach, plum, and cherry trees by removing the central upright leader to develop an open bowl shape.
    On the other hand, creating a central leader is critical for apple and pear trees. Maintain a main vertical trunk (leader), but ensure upper branches are shorter than lower branches to create a pyramid or Christmas tree shape that prevents shading.
  4. Use correct cutting techniques
    Making proper cuts ensures the tree heals quickly. When removing an entire branch, cut just outside the branch’s collar (the slightly swollen ring of bark tissue at the branch’s base). It contains the specialized cells the tree uses to seal the wound. Don’t leave a stub or cut flush to the trunk. When shortening a branch, cut just above an outward-facing bud. This cut directs the new growth away from the tree’s center, helping to open the canopy.
  1. Prune to control vigor
    Heavy winter pruning encourages vigorous new growth in spring. If your tree is healthy and growing quickly, limit cuts to 10-20% of the wood. If the tree is older and has minimal new growth, a more severe prune (up to 30-50% for stone fruits) can promote the growth of new, productive fruiting wood. As a general rule, however, never remove more than one-third (33%) of the tree’s overall canopy in a year to prevent severe stress.
  2. Use Sharp, Clean Tools
    Sterilize your tools before starting and between trees. Clean your hand pruners, loppers, and pruning saws with diluted bleach or rubbing alcohol to prevent the spread of pathogens between trees. Also, keep tools sharp. Sharp tools make clean cuts, which heal faster. Dull tools crush and tear the wood, leaving ragged wounds that invite disease.
    Clean Up Immediately
    Remove debris immediately after pruning. Rake up and dispose of all the pruning branches, especially any diseased material. Leaving diseased branches or leaves on the ground allows pests and fungal spores to overwinter and re-infect the tree the following spring.
    (Unsure about pruning your fruit trees. Contact the experts at RITree for help on how to proceed. They’ll steer you through the process.)

The RI Tree Council offers an annual Fruit Tree Growing Course emphasizing a reliable, economical, and eco-friendly way to grow backyard fruit. The next class starts in March 2026. For more details, click www.ritree.org.

Discover Proven Techniques for Bigger, Healthier Tree Growth!

Written by Lou DiToro on . Posted in Blog, Plant Healthcare, Tree Care.

Large, mature trees, such as those listed on the RI Tree’s Champion Tree webpage, offer significantly greater benefits than smaller trees. Planting them, however, can be a challenge. Doing so in the fall reduces “transplant shock” and gives trees the best chance to establish roots before the stress of a full growing season.

Here arHere are seven tips for big tree care in the fall:

Clean up fallen debris
Heavy piles of leaves or debris. Piles of branches can trap pests, fungal spores, and excess moisture, which may damage the tree’s base. Remove them.
To ensure safety, have an ISA Certified Arborist perform a professional safety inspection, especially if the tree is near a residence, driveway, or utility line, or if you notice any sudden, large, exposed roots, or cracks in the trunk. They can recommend corrective measures like cabling or bracing to support weak limbs against winter weathere seven tips for big tree care in the fall:

1. Water trees deeply
Water your trees thoroughly until the ground freezes. Even as temperatures decrease and leaves fall, trees still need sufficient moisture to prevent drying out. Focus on the root zone, which extends to the tree’s drip line (the edge of the canopy).

2. Apply a layer of mulch
Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch, like wood chips or shredded bark, around the tree’s base. Keep the mulch several inches from the trunk to avoid moisture buildup, which can cause bark rot and disease.

3. Prune dead or damaged Branches
Fall is ideal for pruning dead, diseased, or broken branches. Remove these hazards before winter storms and heavy snow to prevent them from falling and causing damage to people or property.

4. Inspect for pests and diseases
Inspect the trunk and branches for signs of insect damage, fungal growth, or abnormal discoloration. Detecting problems early lets you plan necessary treatments before the spring growing season.

5. Fertilize if necessary
Late fall is ideal for applying a slow-release, deep-root fertilizer, which helps feed the root system. Professional deep-root fertilization is often the most effective approach for large, mature trees.

6. Protect against trunk damage
Protect the trunk from sunscald. Use a commercial tree wrap on the lower trunk or consider installing tree guards to prevent damage from rodents and deer rubbing their antlers. Remove the wrap in the spring.

7. Clean up fallen debris
Heavy piles of leaves or debris. Piles of branches can trap pests, fungal spores, and excess moisture, which may damage the tree’s base. Remove them.

To ensure safety, have an ISA Certified Arborist perform a professional safety inspection, especially if the tree is near a residence, driveway, or utility line, or if you notice any sudden, large, exposed roots, or cracks in the trunk. They can recommend corrective measures like cabling or bracing to support weak limbs against winter weather.

Revitalize Your Trees: Discover the Power of Root Deep Care Today!”

Written by John Campanini on . Posted in Blog.

by John Campanini, Technical Director, RI Tree

Urban trees often need fertilization. That’s mainly due to the unique characteristics of city soils.
Signs that urban trees need fertilization include yellowing leaves (chlorosis), thinning canopies, short twigs, stunted growth, branch dieback, a weak response to mild drought, and early leaf drop.

These issues are often the result of improper soil pH levels, which can vary greatly depending on location, climate, and tree species. In other words, maintaining the correct soil pH is essential for helping trees flourish in urban environments.

New England soil is naturally acidic—pH level < 6.5. This level, which results from a mix of native soil, imported fill materials, construction debris, and different management practices like irrigation with high water or fertilizer use, is also highly variable.

One study comparing forest and urban soils found the average pH level of urban soils to be 7.6, compared to 5.5 for forest soils. Providing the right nutrients in the correct amounts is crucial for proper fertilization, which can be challenging and prone to errors.

Fertilizing Urban Trees Can Be Challenging
Proper tree fertilization begins with diagnosis and ends with application. The issue could be a soil with a low nutrient level, or the soil may need an amendment, like compost or peat moss/coir. A soil amendment is any material added to the soil to improve its physical properties, such as water retention, permeability, drainage, aeration, and structure.

Here are seven essential tips for fertilizing trees correctly:

  1. Get a soil test first
    The most critical step is understanding what your soil actually needs. A soil test from a local agricultural extension office or lab will help identify any specific nutrient deficiencies (e.g., nitrogen, iron, manganese), determine the soil pH, which affects how well a tree can absorb available nutrients, and prevent you from applying unneeded nutrients (like phosphorus).
    (The University of Rhode Island will test soil for free. See this webpage for more information.)
  2. Choose the right fertilizer type
    Prioritize slow-release nitrogen (N) fertilizers. They feed the tree gradually over an extended period, minimizing “fertilizer burn” and excessive, weak shoot growth susceptible to pests and cold damage.
    Since nitrogen is often deficient in the soil and critical for foliage growth, opt for a fertilizer with a high nitrogen ratio (like a 3-1-2 or 4-1-1 N-P-K ratio), generally recommended for established trees.
  3. Fertilize the correct root zone
    A tree’s fine, water- and nutrient-absorbing roots extend far beyond the canopy (dripline). So spread fertilizer across the entire area under the tree’s canopy, extending to the dripline and even slightly beyond. Keep fertilizer a few inches away from the base of the trunk to prevent injury to the bark and root crown.
  4. Apply at the optimal time
    For ideal root health, fertilize in mid-spring – after the leaves have emerged and grown to full size. At this stage of development, the plant has used up most of its stored energy and will benefit the most from fertilizer laden with nutrients to help create more energy.
  5. Use the correct application method
    Spread granular fertilizer evenly over the mulched area and water it thoroughly. Use an auger or punch bar to create 8–12-inch-deep holes, spaced 2–3 feet apart, throughout the target root zone.
    Distribute the granular fertilizer evenly among these holes to get the nutrients below the grass roots. Professional arborists often inject a liquid solution directly into the soil under pressure, which can also help aerate compacted soil.
  1. Apply the correct rate
    Over-fertilization can damage roots, create nutrient imbalances, and lead to weak, brittle growth. Always follow the rates specified in your soil test report. Use the correct type of fertilizer, at the proper rate, at the right time, and in the correct location.
    For surface applications, rates are usually based on a measure of “actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.” Calculate the pounds of your specific product needed according to its N-P-K ratio.
  2. Ensure adequate water and mulch
    Fertilizer isn’t a substitute for basic tree care; trees can’t absorb or transport fertilizer without water. So, water the area immediately after applying fertilizer to help dissolve the granules and move the nutrients into the root zone.
    Maintain a 2–4-inch layer of organic mulch (like wood chips) over the root zone, keeping it away from the trunk.
    Fertilizing trees in urban areas is often a necessity. Fertilization issues often come from the altered nature of urban soil and the lack of natural nutrient cycling, resulting in the need for fertilization. So, watch for the signs, like yellowing leaves or premature leaf drop, that tell you your trees may need help.
    Test your soil first, however, to pinpoint the issue. When fertilizing urban trees, defer to the rates specified in your soil test report. Applying the right kind of fertilizer, at the correct rate, at the right time, and in the right place will generate robust, healthy trees.
    Do you have fertilization questions? Contact the experts at RI Tree. They’ll guide you through fertilization, saving you time and money.

Protect Your Plants and Trees Today: Six Top Tips Against Sudden Frosts

Written by John Campanini on . Posted in Blog.

by John Campanini, Technical Director, RITree

The National Weather Service recently issued a freeze advisory for Rhode Island, indicating that temperatures drop as low as 29°F. Sudden, unseasonal frosts like this endanger plants and trees because they hit them before they have had time to prepare for cold weather. Cold acclimation or hardening is the key to plants and trees surviving the winter. The process is a fundamental, multi-step survival mechanism triggered by environmental signals and critical to a plant’s survival.

The primary danger for plants from a sudden frost is cellular destruction. When temperatures drop rapidly below freezing (32°F or 0∘°C), the water inside and surrounding plant cells freezes, causing them to expand and creating cell membrane rupture and dehydration. Trees, on the other hand, experience structural and systemic damage from rapid temperature decreases. That can cause frost cracking, bark splitting, root damage, and sap flow disruption, which create openings for pests and diseases.

Danger for Urban Trees

Sudden frosts tend to be more damaging to urban trees than those in natural or rural environments. A sudden frost can devastate new or tender growth in urban areas. Below, we break down two reasons why urban trees are more at risk from a sudden drop in temperatures than forest trees:

• Urban Heat Island (UHI) Effect and De-Acclimation

Cities are significantly warmer than surrounding rural areas due to pavement, buildings, and a lack of vegetation absorbing and radiating heat. This increase in temperatures is known as the urban heat island effect. This effect causes critical tree problems, like sunscalding and bark splitting, making city trees more susceptible to dehydration and worsening the damage caused by ice formation during a freeze. The effect is magnified for urban trees because they’re less hardy and prepared due to the artificial warmth and constant environmental stress.

• Compounding Urban Stresses
City trees already live under a perpetual state of stress, which severely limits their ability to recover from freeze damage. Urban trees often deal with compacted soil, a lack of nutrients, limited root space, and poor drainage, which weaken their overall health and resilience. Meanwhile, pavement and concrete limit water absorption, deicing salts used on sidewalks and roads damage tree roots and foliage, and cracked bark or dead branches open entry points for opportunistic pests and diseases.
Tips on Protecting Plants and Trees

The main goals of this process are to conserve energy and prevent lethal ice formation inside the plant’s cells. Here are seven tips on how to protect plants and trees:

  1. Cover plants with fabric: Drape old bed sheets, blankets, burlap, or commercial frost cloth loosely over plants and small trees. Use stakes or a frame to prevent the cover from crushing the foliage. Ensure the cover extends to the ground to trap the earth’s stored heat.
  2. Bring potted plants indoors: Move all container plants, especially tender annuals and tropicals, into a sheltered location like a garage, shed, covered porch, or indoors.
  1. Wrap young tree trunks: Young, thin-barked trees can be susceptible to frost damage. Wrap the trunks with a commercial tree wrap, burlap, or even cardboard to provide insulation.
  2. Water deeply before the freeze: Moist soil holds and re-radiates heat better than dry soil. Watering your plants thoroughly during the day before a frost is expected will help keep the root zone warmer overnight.
  3. Apply a thick layer of mulch: For in-ground plants and trees, apply a thick layer (about 3-6 inches) of straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips around the base. The mulch acts as an insulating blanket, helping to keep the soil and roots warm.
  4. Add a heat source (carefully): For very valuable or vulnerable plants, you can place a low-wattage heat source, like a strand of non-LED incandescent Christmas lights, under the cover to generate extra warmth. Always ensure the heat source is not touching the cover or foliage and does not pose a fire hazard.
    A sudden, unseasonal frost endangers plants and trees because it hits before they have had time to “harden off” for cold weather. The primary danger to plants and trees when this happens is cellular destruction due to the freezing and expansion of water.
    Urban trees are more susceptible to a sudden frost than forest trees thanks to the UHI effect and a combination of city stresses, like deicing salts, limited root space, and compacted soil. Implementing some or all of the six tips boosts your plants and trees’ chances of surviving a sudden frost.
    For more information on protecting your plants and trees from sudden frosts, contact the experts at RI Tree.