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Author: Lou DiToro

7 Tips on Winter-proofing Young Trees

Young trees are the key to a healthy, thriving urban landscape. But they face many

 challenges in winter. Extreme cold can cause a tree’s tissue to freeze, split, and die. Newly planted trees are especially susceptible to extreme cold. Other winter challenges are desiccation (drying out), sunburn, rodents, and ice and snow damage.

Young trees are more vulnerable in winter than mature trees because of their thin bark, shallow roots, and lack of developed defenses. Here are some of the more severe winter threats to young trees:

  • Snow and ice damage
  • Freezing temperatures
  • Desiccation (drying out)
  • Sunburn (aka sunscald)
  • Rodent damage

Being proactive is the key to protecting young trees in winter. Use the seven actions below to take control of young trees.

  1. Tree Wraps: Thin bark wrapped around the trunks of young trees protects them from sunscald and frost damage. Wrap your trees in late fall before the first hard frost. 
  2. Mulch—Apply 2-4 inches of mulch around the tree’s base, out to the drip line (the outermost edge of the canopy where water drips off the leaves).
  3. Watering—Water young trees before the ground freezes. Well-watered trees are better equipped for winter. Don’t over water young trees; soggy soil can cause problems.
  4. Pruning—Don’t prune in late fall or early winter. Prune in late winter or early spring when trees are dormant. Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches and branches crossing or rubbing against each other.
  5. Inspect trees—Look for pests or diseases and act accordingly. Winter is a great time to treat trees for specific pests that overwinter in the soil or on the tree.  
  6. Staking—You may need to stake some young trees. If you stake your trees, make the stakes loose enough to allow trunk movement in the wind. Make sure the stakes are about a foot away.
  7. Snow Removal—Wet, heavy snow is bad for young trees. Gently shake the branches to remove excess snow. Don’t jerk or pull the branches.  

Now that you know how to winterize young trees, be proactive and take steps now to protect them in winter. If you have questions about winterizing young trees, contact a registered arborist or one of our experts at RITree.

RI Tree Announces Site for Arbor Day 2025

RI Tree recently announced the date and site for its Arbor Day 2025 celebration, which will be held at the Providence Country Day (PCD) School, East Providence, RI, on April 25th, starting at 11:00 a.m. The event includes a tree-planting ceremony on PCD grounds, lunch, speakers, and a Tree City USA Awards presentation to the host communities. Tulips, London planes, and elm trees will also be planted on PCD’s grounds as part of a school reforestation effort.
This year’s celebration will be the state’s 138th. Arbor Day recognizes the importance of trees, which provide numerous benefits to residents, including purifying the air, helping cool the earth, boosting property values, and soothing the human psyche. Trees also beautify where we live, work, and play and slow and absorb stormwater, saving taxpayers millions of dollars in annual flood damage and treatment costs.
For more details or questions about this year’s Arbor Day, contact RITree at 401-764-5885 or email ritree@ritree.org.

Use These Tips to Dispose of Your Christmas Tree Responsibly

Disposing of Christmas trees after the holiday is a challenge. Many pros and cons exist for buying a real tree. Growing Christmas trees, for example, absorbs atmospheric carbon dioxide, which is good for the planet. Real Christmas trees are also renewable when sourced from sustainable tree farms. Plus, real trees are biodegradable.

Real trees also can be composted or chipped for mulch, returning nutrients to the soil. What’s more, buying from local sources supports local businesses. If you have an artificial tree, it can be used for many years, reducing the need for repeated tree purchases. Plus, it avoids the waste associated with single-use trees.

But real Christmas trees have downsides. Transporting them from farms to stores creates a significant carbon footprint. Trucks and other vehicles that burn fossil fuels are required to deliver the trees. Cutting down trees at a tree farm also contributes to deforestation if they are not responsibly sourced.

If improperly disposed of in landfills, real trees can decompose and release methane, a potent greenhouse gas. If you favor artificial trees, disposing of them involves high energy consumption and using harmful chemicals. If made from plastic, they can be challenging to recycle and often end up in landfill.

Disposing of Christmas Trees Responsibly

Which approach is better? It all depends. Ultimately, the most environmentally conscious choice depends on individual circumstances and priorities. Ideally, you want to minimize your environmental impact by buying trees from reputable sources or buying sustainably produced artificial trees. Use your Christmas tree for as long as possible, and then dispose of your tree properly. Below are some tips on doing that.

Here are several options that involve giving your Christmas tree a new role:

• Use it as firewood —You can cut it up and use it as firewood. But the wood may still be wet, so use it only in an outdoor fire pit and only when the wood is dry. Using it indoors otherwise is a fire hazard.

• Recycle it as winter mulch—Leave the tree in your yard for the winter. It can provide much-needed shelter for small animals and birds. In the spring, chop it up and use it for mulch.

• Make it a bird feeder — Place it in its stand outdoors. Then, fill some bird feeders and hang them from the tree’s boughs. You can also drape the tree with a swag of pine cones coated with peanut butter.

• Protect plants with it — The winter is hard on tender plants. Cut a few branches or boughs from the tree and cover your tender plants for the winter. The branches will protect them from the season’s harshness.

• Add Christmas freshness to your home — Strip the tree’s pine needles and make a sachet of them. Then, hide them around the bathroom and kitchen for some cheerful fragrance.

Additional Tree Disposal Options

Many Rhode Island cities and towns offer curbside pickup during designated weeks in January. This option is easy, but check your local municipality’s website or sanitation department for pickup dates and guidelines. Providence, for instance, will collect trees on its regular trash pickup day in January. Check with the Department of Public Works for when the program starts and ends. The pickup period ran from January 3rd to 20th last year.

Remove everything from the tree before putting it out. The Rhode Island Resource Recovery Corporation (RIRRC) has an online guide with detailed information on when cities and towns pick up trees. You can also bring the trees directly to the Johnston facility. RIRRC grinds the trees and adds them to a composting operation that produces 40,000 tons annually.

Trees for Trout Program
Another popular option is to donate the tree to the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management (DEM) Division of Fish and Wildlife for its Trees for Trout program. RI DEM partners with Trout Unlimited Rhode Island Chapter on this program, which uses donated trees to build fish habitats in rivers and streams. This effort restores the water bodies and gives trout and other aquatic animals a place to hide from predators.
The next collection event for the Trees for Trout program is on Saturday, January 4th, 2025, from 10 am to 2 pm at the Arcadia Check Station in Exeter, RI. You can find more information about the program on the DEM website or the Rhode Island Chapter of Trout Unlimited website.
Christmas is a great time of the year. But once it’s over, you must do something with your tree. If your municipality provides that service, you can always put it on the curb for trash pickup. But if that option doesn’t appeal to you, you can use the tree better by giving it another role. Use the tips above to make that happen.

Latest Update on Beech Leaf Disease in New England

Beech trees are a keystone species in many ecosystems. Their fruit – the beechnut – is a food source for many animals, including squirrels, deer, birds, and bears. Their canopies shelter animals and provide nesting sites for birds. Their wood is solid and hard with a beautiful grain. Beeches are also famous for their fall foliage and smooth bark. Plus, they have some cultural significance. Ancient people used their bark as paper.

But beeches are under attack now from Beech Leaf Disease (BLD), a deadly disorder that threatens native American beeches and ornamental European beeches. Researchers first detected BLD in Ohio in 2012. It then spread to other states and Canada. It’s now in 12 U.S. states and several Canadian provinces. Researchers found BLD in CT in 2019 and RI and MA in 2020. BLD is especially deadly to young beech trees and the ecosystems they support.

What is Beech Leaf Disease?

Nematodes cause BLD. These microscopic worms (Litylenchus crenatae mccannii) spend the winter in beech buds and beech leaves and emerge in the spring, showing damage to the tree. Infected leaves have dark brown bands between leaf veins or are crinkled, smaller, and leathery than typical beech leaves. Symptoms are more noticeable on North American beeches than on European beeches.

Some beech buds won’t open on heavily infected trees. Severely damaged leaves will fall off soon after emerging in May. New leaves may appear in June in new buds and won’t show signs of the disease, but they will be paler and weaker than typical healthy leaves. Wind plays a big role in spreading the disease. So does the movement of infected plant material like firewood or nursery stock. BLD can spread fast in a forest

Impact of Beech Leaf Disease

Researchers are seeing beeches die within 6-12 years of infection. In Southern New England, beeches often die within a few years of infection. The disease’s effects on trees are critical. Like many tree diseases, BLD reduces photosynthesis and growth and increases susceptibility to other pests and diseases that can kill trees. BLD also causes loss of biodiversity and alteration of the forest ecosystem. Plus, it impacts the timber industry and tourism.

Researchers are working on management solutions for BLD. But there isn’t a cost-effective solution for forested environments yet. There are no effective fungicides for BLD, and treating large mature trees is difficult. Management options are limited but include the following:

  • Early detection and removal of infected trees
  • Development of resistant beech tree varieties
  • Biological control agents
  • Public awareness and education campaigns

In 2017, Ohio researchers had some success managing the disease by treating the soil around small beech trees (about 2-4 inches deep) with a phosphite product called PolyPhosphite 30. Phosphite products are known to stimulate a plant’s defenses.

The researchers treated the trees twice a month with the product about a month apart. The trees were much better after five years than the untreated control trees. They also found fewer nematodes on treated trees than on control trees. We hope to see similar results in New England.

How to Treat Beech Trees

Phosphite products for BLD are available to homeowners. Look for a product that is designed for BLD treatment. Agri-Fos and ProPhyt are good options for BLD. These products are in liquid form. Below are the seven steps to treating a BLD outbreak using a phosphite-based product and a soil drench approach:

1.     Measure the tree’s diameter at breast height—about 4.5 feet high

2.     Follow the product’s label instructions for dosage

3.     Mix the product with water according to the label

4.     Clear the area around the tree’s base of debris and leaf litter.

5.     Slowly pour the diluted phosphite solution into the soil.

6.     Let the solution soak into the root zone.

7.     Water the soil after application to help the solution penetrate deeper

Treat BLD in early spring before new growth begins. You may need to treat the area again later in the growing season. Depending on the disease’s severity and dosage instruction, you may need to treat the soil again.

You can also use a soil injection method to treat BLD. However, you need special equipment to inject phosphite into the soil around the root zone. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for injection depth and spacing.

If you still have questions about BLD or its treatment, contact an arborist or RITree.  

7 Causes of Major Plant Failure That Can Devastate Your Trees

Trees fail more often than you think. Various factors can trigger failure. When that happens, the tree can pose significant risks. So, you may need to remove the tree. That can be costly.

Understanding the factors that cause major tree failure can help you save a tree. It can also boost awareness for better tree care practices.

Below are seven causes of major tree failure and how to stop them from devastating a tree. For more information on plant failure, see this blog post)

  1. Diseases— They can weaken a tree’s structure, causing it to fail. Root damage and unfavorable weather can also help with diseases. Early detection is critical. Identify the pest, choose the correct control method, and apply it.
  • Pests—They can eat away at a tree’s roots, leaves, and/or trunk. That can weaken its structure and boost its disease susceptibility. Identify the pest. Then, choose the correct treatment to eradicate the pest. You can also consult RI Tree on pests and their controls.
  • Weather—Severe weather events, like snowstorms and high winds, can cause major tree failure. Inspect your trees after severe weather events. Look for signs of damage. Proper pruning keeps trees healthy and minimizes wind resistance, improving overall health.
  • Improper planting— Planting trees too deeply, in the wrong location, or using improper techniques can generate root problems. That. in turn, can cause tree failure. You can’t do much to fix a tree planted incorrectly. You can, however, learn from your mistakes.
  • Root damageConstruction, soil compaction, and other activities can damage a tree’s roots, compromising its health and stability. Proper watering, fertilizing, and mulching can help overcome root damage.
  • Poor maintenanceNeglecting trees can lead to big problems and eventual failure. Take care of your trees. That includes regular watering, pruning, and mulching. It also includes monitoring signs of disease or pest infestation.
  • AgeMature trees become more susceptible to failure as they age. Proper care can increase a tree’s life. Even with the best care, trees will fail. Remove the tree as soon as you can. (See our blog post on preserving older trees.)

Major tree failure happens all too often. That can cost you big time. Be mindful of the seven major causes of plant failure described above. In severe cases, consult a certified arborist or contact RITree for help. 

Transform Your Trees with These Proven Growth Management Techniques

Tree growth is a complex process. It involves factors that can impact a tree’s size, shape, and health. It also involves seed germination, photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, water transport, root development, genetics, soil quality, and competition. Understanding how these factors work together can help you boost tree growth and help you grow robust, healthy trees with long lifespans.

Managing tree growth effectively delivers numerous benefits. Well-managed trees shade us in the summer, conserve energy, cut maintenance costs, and reduce noise pollution—all while capturing and storing carbon dioxide and improving air quality. Manage growth also boosts a tree’s lifespan, enhances its appearance, and optimizes growth. Plus, it protects people and the environment.

But managing tree growth can be challenging. Below, we discuss several key factors that dramatically impact tree growth and provide proven tips on managing it effectively.

Brief Overview of Primary Tree Growth

Trees go through two growth periods—primary growth and secondary growth. Primary growth provides the tree’s structure and determines a tree’s height and overall shape. It occurs at the tips of the tree’s roots and shoots, an area known as the plant’s apical meristems. Cells in this area quickly divide and produce new cells. They then elongate, causing the root or shoot to lengthen.

Other cells in this area become specialized tissues like the xylem, which transports water. Then there are those cells that turn into the tree’s phloem, which transports nutrients. Meanwhile, the root system expands to anchor the tree, and the shoot system grows upward to capture sunlight for photosynthesis. These activities prepare the tree for its secondary growth period.

Secondary Tree Growth Boosts Girth

Secondary growth occurs in woody plants. It produces new wood and bark, increasing the plant’s girth or diameter. Secondary growth is primarily due to two types of meristematic tissues: the vascular cambium and the cork cambium. The vascular cambium produces xylem cells towards the inside, forming annual growth rings.
The vascular cambium produces phloem cells towards the outside, which become part of the inner bark. The cork cambium, meanwhile, produces cork cells, forming the outer bark, which protects the tree. Over time, the tree’s trunk and branches become thicker and more robust as secondary growth occurs.
Other processes that occur during secondary growth include:

• Photosynthesis
• Nutrient uptake
• Water transport
• Leaf growth
• Branching
• Root development
These processes are all interconnected. Genetics, environmental conditions, and competition also influence tree growth.

Tips on Managing Tree Growth Rate

While you can’t alter a tree’s growth rate much, you can still influence growth to some extent through proper tree care. Here are some activities that can help you promote healthy tree growth:

• Make sure the tree receives sufficient sunlight, water, and nutrients
• Provide the right type and amount of fertilizer based on soil tests
• Prune dead, diseased, or crossing branches to improve light penetration and air circulation while the tree grows
• Protect the tree from pests and diseases, which will prevent growth setbacks

Here are some factors that slow growth:
• Reduce watering, especially during dormant periods.
• Prune lightly. Heavy pruning can temporarily slow growth, so avoiding excessive pruning is essential.
• Carefully pruning roots can restrict nutrient and water uptake. However, this is a complex technique best left to professionals.
• Some chemical growth regulators can be used, but their application requires expertise and caution.
• Always consider the tree’s health and species-specific needs when managing a tree’s growth rate. Excessive manipulation can harm the tree.
Managing tree growth takes time and patience but pays off in the long run. Managed growth benefits you, the tree, and the environment. So, take this task seriously, regardless of the species of tree you have. If you need help managing the growth of one of your trees, don’t hesitate to contact RI Tree. Its experts can help you create a plan for your tree to boost its health and growth.

Save Your Plants Now! Combat Plant Drought Stress with these 5 Tips

Plants are remarkably resilient. They can survive numerous plant diseases and other deadly threats. Yet even the most adaptable plant can succumb to drought stress, which typically occurs during July and August, the year’s hottest months. Characterized by a complex interplay of physiological and biochemical processes, drought stress upsets the delicate balance within a plant. Knowing what drought stress is and how it impacts plants can help you develop effective strategies for protecting plants.

Protecting plants from drought stress can boost their well-being, enhance their lives, and increase the soil’s health. It can also conserve water usage and lessen the need for harmful pesticides. If you’re a farmer, protecting plants from drought stress can lead to better crops, an increase in a crop’s food self-sufficiency, and a farm’s profits. Below, we discuss drought stress and its impacts on a plant’s life and provide proven tips on protecting your plants from this deadly event.

What is Plant Drought Stress?

Drought stress occurs when plants lack enough water to meet their needs. This deficiency can happen due to several factors, including:
• Lack of rainfall: This is the most common cause of plant drought stress.
• High temperatures: Hot weather increases evaporation rates, so plants lose water more quickly.
• Windy conditions: Wind can accelerate water loss from plants.
• Shallow watering: If you only water the soil’s surface, the roots won’t be encouraged to grow deeper and access more moisture reserves.
• Poor soil drainage: If water drains away too quickly, the roots won’t have enough time to absorb it.
• Plant type: Some plants are naturally more drought-tolerant than others.
The intensity and duration of the drought, as well as the specific plant species, determine its impact on plants.
Effect of Drought Stress on Plants

Droughts can impact a plant in several ways. They can stunt its growth, cause its leaves to wilt and drop off, and reduce its ability to produce food. It can also increase a plant’s susceptibility to diseases and pests, damaging its health in the long term. Many plants, however, have built-in defenses to help them survive a drought, including growing roots deeper, closing stomata to conserve water, and reducing CO2 intake.

Tips on Combatting Plant Drought Stress

Maintaining moist soil is the key to avoiding plant injury. Here are a few helpful tips for dealing with drought stress.

  1. Water deeply and less frequently: Instead of shallow, daily watering, give your plants a long, deep soak every few days. This deep soak encourages the roots to grow deeper into the soil, where they can tap more moisture reserves. Aim to wet the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches.
  2. Water early in the morning: Watering your plants early in the morning allows the water to soak into the soil before the heat of the day, which can cause evaporation.
  3. Mulch around your plants: Mulch is a material layer, such as wood chips, bark, or straw, spread around the base of plants. It helps retain moisture in the soil by reducing evaporation and suppresses weeds, which compete with plants for water.
  4. Group plants together: Grouping plants together helps create a more humid microclimate and conserve water. Taller plants can also shade shorter plants, helping to reduce water loss.
  5. Choose drought-tolerant plants: When planting new plants, consider choosing varieties known to be drought-tolerant, such as Paperbark Maple, American Hornbeam, Kousa Dogwood, Washington Hawthorne, and American Sweetgum. Additional drought-tolerant plants include Russian Sage, Lilacs, Black-eyed Susan, Lavender, and Coneflower. These plants are typically adapted to drier conditions and require less water.

You can also use gator bags to deliver water to trees effectively and efficiently during summer. Gator bags, also known as slow-release watering bags or tree watering bags, deliver water slowly and directly to the roots of trees or shrubs. They’re most beneficial for newly planted trees and shrubs but may not work for plants with extensive root systems. The size of the gator bag should be appropriate for the size of the plant. Drain the bag completely during cold weather to prevent freezing and potential damage.

Plants are remarkably resistant—no doubt about it. But drought stress can badly damage many plant species. Our tips to combat drought stress can help plants survive the heat. They’ll benefit your plants, the environment, and your wallet. Remember them whenever it gets hot.

Cultivating Bonsai Trees: 8 Proven Tips  

Cultivating Bonsai trees offers something other tree care activities don’t: It combines aesthetic appeal, stress reduction, and a connection to nature. This combination makes growing Bonsai trees a highly rewarding addition to your home or hobby.

But cultivating Bonsai trees has its challenges—challenges growers need to overcome to grow a beautiful, robust tree. It also takes patience and dedication. Below are eight tips that can help you grow great Bonsai trees.

  1. Choose the right tree—If you plan to keep the tree indoors, select a species that thrives there. Ficus, juniper, and Schefflera are good choices for Bonsai trees.
  2. Lighting—Bonsai trees need ample indirect sunlight, say about 5 to 6 hours daily, whether the tree is indoors or outdoors. Lack of sunlight can cause weak foliage and other tree problems. 
  3. Watering—Bonsai trees come in small pots, so they dry up quickly. Water your bonsai trees deeply when the soil feels dry to the touch. 
  4. Soil—Use a well-draining bonsai soil mix that allows for good aeration and prevents root rot. A suitable mixture for most trees is Akadama, pumice, and lava rock in a 1:1:1 ratio.
  5. Fertilizing—Bonsai trees need fertilizer during the growing season (spring and summer) but sparingly. Use a balanced bonsai fertilizer according to the package instructions. 
  6. Pruning—Regular pruning is essential for maintaining the size and shape of your bonsai. Prune leaves and branches throughout the growing season. 
  7. Repotting—Repot your bonsai every 2-3 years or when the roots become pot-bound. Use a slightly larger pot with fresh bonsai soil mix. Also, place a layer of soil in the pot before positioning.
  8. WiringYou can use aluminum or copper wire to shape the branches of your bonsai tree. However, wiring should be done carefully to avoid damaging the bark.

Cultivating Bonsai trees can be challenging at first. But with patience, dedication, and the tips described above, you can cultivate a tree that transforms your space for years.

Discover the Power of Soil Testing: A Practical Guide to Ensure Your Trees Thrive

Testing your soil is a critical step before planting a tree. Testing your soil identifies nutrient deficiencies. Knowing what nutrients your soil lacks helps you choose the right fertilizer to give your tree a healthy start. You also test the soil to check its pH level. Most trees prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6-7). If the pH is too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic), it can prevent trees from absorbing nutrients.

A third reason to test your soil is to avoid wasting resources. By understanding your soil’s baseline, you can avoid applying unnecessary fertilizers or amendments. Testing helps you target exactly what your soil needs, avoiding over-application and potential environmental harm from fertilizer runoff. For fruit trees, proper soil nutrients impact the quantity and quality of fruit produced, and a soil test can help you optimize your soil for a bountiful harvest.

Best Time to Test Your Soil
The best time to test your soil is a few weeks before planting. That allows you time to amend the soil if needed, based on the test results. You can test the soil yourself using a home testing kit, which is readily available at garden centers and big box stores. This method will give you a basic analysis of pH and nutrient levels. Convenience is a key benefit of testing the soil yourself. Self-testing also creates a good entry point for those new gardeners to learn more about soil and plant needs.

For a more precise analysis, consider sending your sample to a professional soil testing lab. Local extension offices can often provide recommendations on labs. In Rhode Island, you can test your soil at the University of Rhode Island’s Cooperative Extension, College of the Environmental and Life Sciences. Below is more information on how to do that. (If you’re not from Rhode Island, you can find a state-by-state list of soil testing labs on this website.)

Several private companies offer soil testing services. These labs may offer a wider range of tests or faster turnaround times than university labs.
Here are a couple examples:
• New England Testing Laboratory (https://www.newenglandtesting.com/Privacy.php) in West Warwick, RI.
• New England Specialty Soils Screening Facility (https://www.nesoils.com/) in Lancaster, MA.
Consider factors like the type of test you need, turnaround time, and cost when choosing a testing service.
Soil Testing in Rhode Island

The URI lab offers many free and low-cost informational and diagnostic services to Rhode Island citizens. Its Master Gardeners conduct free soil pH testing for the residents of Rhode Island and surrounding areas from March through October. These tests will help determine soil pH levels and predominant soil texture. It also provides basic information and recommendations for the gradual correction of soil pH and compaction issues.

You have two ways to get your soil tested with this program. You can attend a community event where URI’s Gardening Information and Soil Testing booth will be. See the 2024 schedule here. Or, you can mail-in your sample with a Soil Test Result Report Form. Print the form, complete it, and send it along with your sample to URI Cooperative Extension, 3 East Alumni Ave, Kingston, RI 02881. Please include ‘Attn: Soil Test’ on the envelope.

Here’s a step-by-step breakdown of what’s involved in testing your soil for planting trees. Keep in mind that preparation is critical to getting a good sample for testing:

  1. Gather your tools—You’ll need a clean trowel or spade, a bucket, and a permanent marker. Consider wearing gloves for ease of handling soil. Use a stainless steel or chrome-plated soil probe. Brass, bronze, or galvanized tools can contaminate samples with copper and/or zinc.
  2. Choose the testing method—Decide whether you’ll use a home test kit (faster but less accurate) or send a sample to a lab (more precise but takes longer).
  3. Target planting area—Collect samples from the area where you plan to plant your tree.
  4. Sample depth—Aim for 6-12 inches deep, where tree roots will establish. (If you’re testing soil for lawns, go 3 inches down.)
  5. Multiple samples—Take 10-15 samples in a zig-zag pattern to get a good representation of the area. Avoid areas with obvious signs of contamination or recent fertilization.
  6. Mix it up—In your clean bucket, combine all the collected soil samples and mix them thoroughly. Remove any large rocks or other non-soil particles from the soil.
  7. Sample amount—Depending on your chosen testing method, take the recommended amount of the composite sample (usually 1-2 cups) for testing. Label the container with your name, collection date, and intended planting area.
    Additional Tips:
    • A soil probe or auger is the best tool for sampling, especially if the soil is very stony or gravel.
    • If a soil probe or auger is not available, use a garden trowel, shovel, or spade to dig into the desired depth of the soil depth.
    • Cut out a triangular wedge of soil. Then, set it aside (to be replaced after sampling). Slide your blade into the soil again, taking a thin (half-inch) slice from one side of the hole.
    • Store your labeled soil sample in a cool, dry place until testing.
    • Some labs offer online tools to help interpret your soil test results and recommend amendments if you’re using the self-test approach.
    • If you’re submitting your sample to a soil testing lab, you’ll need a soil sample information sheet and a soil sample box. Both are available from the extension office in your county or city.
    By following these steps, you can gain valuable insights into your soil’s condition and ensure your new tree has the best chance of thriving. All the tools mentioned in this article are available online. If you need help taking a soil sample, contact RI Tree. Our experts can guide your through the process.

Use these 8 Tips to Plant Trees that Will Transform Your Space for Decades

Planting trees isn’t just about adding beauty to your yard. It’s also an investment in the future. Trees bring beauty and value to your home, provide shade, improve air quality, and boost property values. However, people often make mistakes when planting trees, such as not adequately preparing the planting site or planting a tree unsuitable for the climate, soil type, or space available, which can lead to problems for the tree down the road.

Below are eight planting tips that will help you plant trees that flourish for decades:

  1. Pick the right tree—Do your research before you buy a tree. Choose a variety that will thrive in your yard. Consider the tree’s mature size, sunlight needs, soil conditions, and potential hazards like power lines before buying the tree.  
  • Plant during the dormant season—Early spring or fall is the best time to plant trees in most temperate climates because the trees are dormant and less stressed by the transplanting process.
  • Dig a wide, shallow hole—Size matters when it comes to holes. They should be 2-3 times wider than the tree’s root ball but only as deep as the root ball.  
  • Handle the tree carefully—Avoid damaging the root ball when transporting a tree, which can stress it. Also, water the tree hole thoroughly before transplanting it.    
  • Position the tree correctly—Make sure the trunk is straight before lowering the tree into the hole. You can use a stake or another person to help you with this. Also, check for root ball alignment.  
  • Backfill the hole with high-quality topsoil—Fill the hole with the topsoil you set aside when digging. Add it in stages and water thoroughly after each layer, which helps settle the soil. Then tamp it down lightly.  
  • Water the tree deeply—Use 2-3 gallons per inch of trunk diameter. So, a tree with a 2-inch diameter trunk would need 4-6 gallons of water. Use a slow trickle of water from a hose or a watering can with a rose attachment.
  • Add mulch around the tree’s base—Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Choose organic mulches like shredded bark, wood chips, or compost, which decompose over time, add nutrients to the soil, and improve drainage.

By following the eight tips outlined above, you can avoid the common pitfalls in tree planting. This knowledge gives you the information you need to lay a strong foundation for a robust, healthy tree that transforms your space.